Life On A B-I7

Day 52

Fairplay CO, 50 miles, climb 2,520 ft.

The elevation here in Fairplay is 9,953 ft. They sell cans of oxygen in the motel lobby. The sign says, “don’t let the elevation ruin your vacation.” I’ll try not to. I don’t mean any disrespect to persons that have health issues, but I’m certainly glad I was able to ride my bicycle here from Virginia without the need for supplemental oxygen…

Last night two riders joined me in the bunkhouse in Guffey. They were from the Neatherlands. They had come all the way from Silverthorn in one day. I was impressed to say the least. Since they were leaving bear country, they gave me their can of bear spray to carry. I promised I would give it to the first east bound cyclist I found once I got to Oregon.

I stopped in the town of Hartsel on the way here. That was going to be my destination for the day. It is not a big town. Restaurant, convenience store, coffee shop, that’s about it. They allow camping behind the restaurant but that wasn’t speaking to me today. I pulled into the espresso shop and had a double espresso and a vanilla bean milkshake, The owner of the shop was a gracious host. We chatted for a half an hour and then her husband and his best friend came into the shop and the four of us had a lively conversation. It turned out we had a fair amount of lumber experience in our backgrounds, oddly enough, we spent several minutes talking about lumber drying techniques. (I know that sounds boring, but actually it’s not, I’ll leave it at that.) The shop was fascinating. It turned out to be a combination, coffee shop, rock shop, and art gallery. I was impressed by the hand-crafted Indian art. The Talking Sticks were beautiful. Who can’t use a talking stick? Truly, a custom that performs a valuable service, I dare say our leaders could benefit from the use of a Talking Stick. I bought a Sterling Silver ring for $12. That won’t be a burden to carry, and it will be a nice reminder of my journey.

My ride into Hartsel was fairly windy. Without looking at the sky I decided to continue on to Fairplay. About five miles outside town the wind came up again but this time it brought some steady rain with it. It rained hard for another five miles. I was glad when it stopped. I didn’t mind they wind really, It dried out my rain jacket. I was wearing three layers so I was able to maintain my body temperature despite the wind. The wind was in my face at times, but not enough to take the joy out of the ride.

There was one thing trying to take the joy out of the ride however, that was the cars and trucks on the road. Hwy 9 to Breckenridge is not for the feint of heart. There is no shoulder most of the way, where there is one, it is mere 12” at most, hardly enough to even be called a shoulder. It seemed like yesterday a larger than usual number of drivers were intent on not giving the guy on the bicycle any room. Back at my espresso stop one of the guys told me he won’t ride his bicycle on Hwy 9 any longer. I took note of that comment at the time, but his meaning was driven home to me by the time I reached Fairplay.

Back on TransAm Day 1, I met Brett from Maine. He was on sabbatical and had only about 50 days to do the TransAm. That is world class riding when you are self-supported. I got a really nice text message from him this evening that he had made it to Astoria! He had completed the ride in 52 days! He averaged more than 100 miles per day and he doesn’t cheat on his stats like I do. He counted his rest days when calculating his average miles per day! Congratulations Brett. That is an awesome achievement! I wouldn’t mind riding with you some day, but you would need to take a bit more leisurely approach for me to be able to keep up with you!

The real highlight of my day came shortly after the rain stopped. I noticed a mother bird and her chicks poking around in the grass a few yards off the road. (I did some research over dinner and my best guess is that I was looking at a Hooded Merganser and her chicks. There was a wildlife sanctuary nearby.) When the mother spotted me she ducked into the taller grass further away. She was chirping at the chicks to follow and they were chirping at one another to know which direction to go. The grass was taller than the chicks. Three of the chicks started moving towards the road, definitely the wrong direction. Two of them got turned around and headed back into the grass but the one closest to me became frightened and didn’t know what to do. The chick was slightly in front of me so I pushed the bike forward to try and encourage the little fellow to head back into the grass. Just the opposite occurred. The little guy scurried all the way across the road and into the grass on the other side. A miracle in itself really, since it was a very busy highway. I knew this guy would never be reunited with it’s mother and siblings now that it was on the wrong side of the road, so I pushed my bike across the road and went after the chick. I found it hiding, silently, in the grass about 10 yards from the shoulder. I was able to scoop it up into my hands and after waiting for traffic to clear, take it across the road and into the grass on the other side where it belonged. It didn’t make a sound after I scooped it up and as I was heading back to the other side of the road, but once it heard its siblings chirping it let out a few of its own. I placed it in the grass a safe distance from the road and headed back to my bicycle feeling happy and a tiny bit proud of myself for giving Mother Nature a helping hand.

Current Creek Pass, 9,404 ft. My first real view of snow capped peaks.

Day 51

Guffey CO, 32 miles, climb 4,377 ft.

Today dished out some wicked climbing, but I made it to Guffey before the Bakery closed at 3 PM, so that’s a very good day. To be perfectly honest, I am tired. I’m very happy to have shelter for the night, at the Guffey Garage Bunkhouse.

There were three climbs today. The first coming out of Canon City was 6 miles long. The second was 3 miles long, and the third was 2 miles long. I’m not sure what the grades were but I can report that at least half the time on all three climbs I was in my lowest gear and I never made it higher than the next one up from the lowest gear. Of course that actually tells you nothing because every cyclist is different. What I can tell you for sure is that if I had not gotten the 11-32 cassette installed in St. Louis I probably would not have made it to Guffey before midnight!

Do I miss the green vastness of Kansas and Southeast Colorado prairie grasses? I enjoyed them but I don’t miss them. Growing up in Seattle I am charmed by mountains. Today was thrilling because I’m back in mountains and it reminded me of home. Not completely. These mountains are different of course. More rugged certainly for starters but there are subtle differences. The type of rocks are very different, as are the trees. In the Pacific Northwest, the mountains are dominated by Fir and Hemlock trees, here I noticed mostly Pine trees. I stopped along-side the road today to look at rocks. I picked up a small rock that looks to my eye like it has flakes of silver in it. I actually have no idea if it is silver or not, so I threw it in my pannier to ask a rock expert first chance I get. It could easily be galena, pyrite, magnetite, or maybe silver!

Tomorrow will be another day of climbing but it doesn’t look like the climbing will be as difficult as today’s was. I probably shouldn’t be saying that, since I really have no idea what lies ahead of me…

My bunkhouse in Guffey. It’s a mile and a half (uphill) off the route, but totally worth it.

Day 50

Canon City CO, 48 miles

”Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving.” —Albert Einstein

Someone asked me, “where do you get your quotes?” The answer I gave was, “here, there, and everywhere…” Take a look at the photo below for an example.

Here’s another one: “Naïveté is the mother of adventure.” —Rinker Buck

It sure is! Sometimes the less you know about what is in front of you the better. This is my second crossing and I’m still amazed at the things I don’t know and the things I learn every day. Possibly the biggest thing I learn, and relearn, is living with uncertainty. What will I eat, where will I sleep, do I have enough to drink, can I keep my bike on the road! These questions and many more pervade my mind throughout the day. As my bar friend back in Ordway asked me, very seriously, “what do you Mother expletives think of all day as you are pedaling down the road?” My answer was simple, “Nothing, and a lot.” Sometimes my mind is blank. When the terrain has me focused on the next mile to gain, my mind is focused on what is immediately in front of me. When the progress is easy, that’s when things get expansive. I think about what I’d like to write about when I get off the bike at the end of the day, or I simply take in the sights, sounds and smells with curiosity and wonder. It really doesn’t matter if there are answers to the questions that present themselves, what matters is experiencing the moment.

Finally, here’s another quote: As Abraham Lincoln once remarked about a peddler’s pantaloons for sale, “big enough for any man, small enough for any boy.” I hope you find something interesting in this blog, regardless of the size pantaloon your may wear…

Quotes happen.

Day 49

Pueblo CO, 0 miles, Rest Day

I went completely overboard yesterday and found two books to buy. It could be I’m loosing my mind, I don’t know. I’m excited about both. The first is titled Lincoln The War President, The Gettysburg Lectures Edited by Gabor Boritt. I’m really excited about this one. It’s a paperback, so it won’t be hard to carry. Better than that, I did not know that every year on the anniversary of Lincoln’s Gettysburg Address, Gettysburg College invites a noted historian to give a public lecture. These are serious lectures presented to an audience that has not made the study of history its life’s work. I’m excited because attending one of these lectures gives me a new bucket list item. The book contains seven lectures. I’m going to learn a lot about both Lincoln and our county’s history from this read.

The second book is hard bound. I know, what could I possibly have been thinking? It’s likely I’ll mail this one home. Sometimes you are browsing books and one simply jumps into your hands and there isn’t any way you can put it back on the shelf. At least that’s what happed to me yesterday morning with this one. The book is Norse Mythology by Neil Gaiman. Since I know very little about Norse Mythology but I do know it’s a fascinating subject, I decided to get it. Norse Mythology has had a surprising amount influence on our western culture and I’m looking forward to discovering more about that influence. I decided nothing could go wrong reading a book written by Neil Gaiman.

Today will be spent airing things out, resting, resupplying a few essential items and enjoying a good read over a cup of good coffee. Perhaps what makes today so exciting for me is that it is a very different experience than being on the bike. That said, I’m looking forward to getting back on the bike tomorrow morning. I’m going to have a light dinner tonight and hit the road early tomorrow morning.

I had a lively conversation with Tom. He’s a smart dude and he can play the Marxophone pretty well too!

Day 48

Pueblo CO, 0 miles, Rest Day

People I have talked to in towns along the way have confirmed my suspicion that there are a lot fewer cyclists on the TransAmerica Bicycle Route than in pre-COVID years. It’s a shame really because almost all the towns along the route are small and could really benefit from the stimulus provided by people passing through. I wish I had kept a more accurate count, but my number probably isn’t far off, I have passed about two dozen people heading East since I started my tour. Going West, I’ve been passed by no more than a half-dozen people, and those were in the first few days out of Yorktown, none since then. I was told in one town recently that in the past, as many as 50 cyclists would be in town on a single day. That number is just hard to comprehend based on my current experience. I don’t want to make any rash judgements about the mind-set of people in the world we live in now compared to the one we lived in just four years ago, but I think it’s clear that now things are different. Social Scientists studying us years from now will have a lot of work to do to explain these times, economically, socially, and politically.

I have a goal on rest days, besides resting, it is to visit bookstores, bakeries, and bike shops. Yes, the places I visit have to start with the letter “B”. I also give acknowledgement to the letter “C” by visiting coffee shops. There is a river walk here in Pueblo that people are quite proud of, It’s about a mile long. I’m going to take that in later this morning. Don’t think by this that I have any preference for the letter “R.” It so happens there are two book stores only a short distance from the walk. One of them is an outlet for used books acquired from the Pueblo Public Library. That should prove to be a treasure trove. You may be wondering, does he carry books with him in his panniers? No, I don’t, but I am thinking about it. If you’ve been following these stories you know that I have bought one book already, and promptly mailed it home. It will be a fine read and a fine souvenir. You never know, I may find another.

The Arkansas River as it makes it’s way into Pueblo. Muddy from recent rains and Spring snowmelt. The Rockies got snow just two weeks ago. That’s not the only reason I started my tour in the East, but it is one of them.

Day 47

Pueblo CO, 55 miles

Today I exited the Great Plains of the U.S. They stretch all across Southeast Colorado to Eastern Kansas. Kansas is noted for its abundance of Sunflowers and Black Eyed Susans. Oddly enough, yesterday here at the west end of the Great Plains, they were both on display in abundance. At times my panniers were brushing up against them alongside the road. This must be the time when they start to come into bloom.

By far for me the windiest part of the plains crossing was Southeast Colorado. I spent one night trying to sleep through sustained 30 MPH wind. At times I thought the rain fly on my tent was going to be blown away. I found out the next day at breakfast that a 30 MPH wind here on the Southeast Colorado plains is what locals call a “breeze.”

The small towns spread across Southeast Colorado named this part of the TransAmerican Bicycle Route “The Prairie Horizons Trail.” That is a great name, and fitting. When you are cycling this broad expanse of prairie you set your sights on the horizon and pedal, when you reach the spot you’ve been working to gain you look around and there are more horizons — in every direction. There are no trees here to obstruct your view, or obstruct the wind. Now I know another reason why people ride this route from West to East, besides the prevailing winds, traveling West to East provides a more-or-less steady downhill ride. In my East to West crossing I’ve gained about 3,000 feet of elevation since I left Kansas. The net is 3,000 feet. It’s a bit more when you take into account rollers. I definitely think it’s more of a challenge to do the route the way I chose to do it. That does not make me a better cyclist, it’s just the way things worked out.

The town of Pueblo Colorado where I end my plains crossing has an interesting history. It was established in 1842 by fur traders that built a fort of mud and logs and named it “El Pueblo.” It lasted just three years when the Ute Indians took over the fort and occupied it. Eventually just a short distance down river the town of Pueblo was established. It later became a hub for gold and silver mining, and soon the railroads that followed. Both the Santa Fe and the Denver and Rio Grande laid tracks through Pueblo. Pueblo to this day has a steel mill that is one of the largest west of the Mississippi. The Arkansas River runs through Pueblo. I have a lot to learn about our country’s geography, I had no idea.

Tomorrow begins my northerly traverse of the Rocky Mountains. The contrast in the landscape as I turn north I expect will be dramatic.

I have covered 2,743 miles. I have 1,554 to go!

The “Great Plains” are a challenge and a beauty hard to describe.

Day 46

Ordway CO, 90 miles

Just when you think you’ve done your best, you somehow find a way to do a little better. Today’s 90 miles comes as something of a surprise to me, but I am happy to take it.

I really didn’t have that many options. The towns with any services in this part of Eastern Colorado are 30 to 40 miles apart. If you’re going to cover more than one town, it means stretching your legs. I’m happy my destination town today was at 90 and not 100. It was so hot today I had to stop at 85 miles and find shade or bad things could have happened. I found shade and rested for 30 minutes. The last 5 miles was a breeze. It was also getting to that point in the afternoon when it was starting to cool off just slightly, which helped a lot.

They say that desperation is the mother of invention, it can also be the father of stupidity…

Around mid-day I was stopped on the road-side hydrating and I heard a clank-clank, clank-clank, behind me. I looked back to see what was going on and there was a car approaching with no tire on the right rear wheel. I crossed over to the other side of the road because I wanted no part of that action. As the car was passing, I waved at the driver, I intended to tell him that his repair strategy (whatever it was) was not going to turn out well. I guess he didn’t see me because he just kept on going. Sure enough, five miles down the road, there he was stopped and going nowhere. The wheel had folded in on itself and the car was resting on the rear axle. The driver had managed to turn a $100 tire plus the cost of road-side assistance into a nearly totaled vehicle. I pulled up and asked him if I could make a call for him. He told me he had a phone (I was mildly surprised) and had already called a friend. He then asked me how far to the next town. (Trust me, cyclists know these things!) I told him four miles, but there were no services. The next town after that with any services was another 40 miles. He thanked me, although I’m not sure why, it’s not like I was giving him good news.

I pulled into my destination hot, tired and as I was about to find out, not smiling. I was drinking a cold water and a woman and her friend walked by and she said to me, “I’ve never seen a cyclist smiling.” I explained that was because I was hot and tired, then I smiled at her and said, “there, you made me smile!” We chatted briefly. I explained that hot and tired comes naturally after covering 90 miles in 90 degree heat. I think that made a connection.

After hydrating, I found the local bar and went in to order a Budweiser, I learned they had run out of the stuff. It was then I realized I was in Colorado, I asked sheepishly, “do you have Coors?” The bartender said, “of course, and it’s on tap.” I said “that’s perfect.” (I exaggerate at times to ingratiate myself.) After chatting for a bit with my bar mates, I learned that the beer I was drinking was being paid for my my new friends. In return I bought a pizza and shared it around. There’s nothing quite like a small town. The fellow sitting next to me had his dog with him in the bar (again, not something you’re likely to see outside a small town). It was a six month old Australian Shepard, Blue Heeler mix. One of the cutest dogs I’ve ever seen. We became friends instantly.

There’s a hotel in town but I didn’t like the fact that they had a sign on the door, “no bicycles allowed in the hotel.” I have chosen to sleep in the city park instead. There simply is no room in the word for that sort of prejudice… Besides, I never let my bike out of my sight, it’s my horse and my best friend on the road.

Memorial sculpture to John Egbers. Don’t drive distracted please.

Day 45

Sheridan Lake CO, 78 miles

The 78 miles covered today checks the box for my longest day so far, and very possibly my longest of the tour.

It’s 5:30 PM Mountain Time. I’m in Colorado! I arrived about an hour ago. Got a sandwich from the convenience store and went to check out the cyclist campground hosted by the local Christian Church. Unfortunately there is no shelter from the wind and the biting flies we’re having a field day with my ankles. Someone told me the flies don’t bite in Colorado, I guess I’m not far enough west yet.

It is windy. I’m going to call it a steady 30 MPH wind with gusts higher. I found a spot that has a pergola which doesn’t help with the wind but will provide some help if it starts to rain later. This is the first time I have written a post in a wind storm. The good news is it’s not cold. I’m waiting for it to get dark, then I will pitch the tent and the rain can do whatever it wants.

I met a guy going east this morning. Big John. He’s only 6-8, so I’m not really sure how he got that name. He needed a bit of chain lube so I fixed him up. We chatted for a bit and he was full of good advice. Super dude. You can follow him here if you’d like.

Crazy Guy On A Bike Note: It’s a BIG site with lots of cool info and blogs. To find Big John’s stuff use the search box and search for “John Murphy.”

Big John has done nine tours. Makes my four look a little weak, but hopefully I have a few more left in me. I really liked his advice about getting some copper water bottles. He said us old guys don’t get enough copper. Another nice thing about copper bottles is that they freeze nicely in hotel room refrigerators so the next day you have cold water for quite awhile!

A bit further down the road I noticed a beautiful steel sculpture. It was outside a bakery. That seemed like a good place to stop. I went in and picked out a couple of baked goods and went to pay. The nice lady told me the family of the man memorialized by the sculpture out front buys whatever a cyclist chooses to eat there. No donations accepted. What a beautiful tribute. The man’s name is John Egbers. He was attempting to cross the U.S. in 24 days. He had made it 2,200 miles in 12 days when tragedy struck John. The sculpture says “We are all diminished by one.” A distracted driver took John’s life. If I were a person of influence I would see to it that a law was passed requiring all cell phone text messaging and browsing apps be disabled if the phone was moving at 20 MPH or more. The technology to make that happen is simple. All it takes is the willingness to allow ourselves to be separated from these two non-essential activities when we are behind the wheel of a car. Maybe some day.

I’m looking forward to seeing what the weather brings tonight!

There was no sign to welcome me to Colorado, so this one will have to do.

Day 44

Scott City KS, 56 miles

Last night when I was planning today’s route, it seemed like today would be a good opportunity to attempt an “epic distance” day. There are of course many “epic” days on a tour of this length, but it is always rewarding to put in one day where you stretch your legs and see how far you can go… Today was not to be that day.

Yesterday morning, the sky was dark to the east and light to the west. When you see clearing skies in your direction of travel, it always makes you feel good. This morning the sky was dark to the west. Not a good sign, or a good feeling. My idea was to have a go at 80 miles, with towns at 31, 56, and 80 miles respectively. I got 15 miles down the road and that’s when the dark skies turned to dark skies and rain. By the time I reached the first town at mile 31, I was, to put it simply, wet. I pulled into a drive-in on the outskirts of town that had covered picnic tables. I ordered some lunch and sat down to wait out the rain. Kansas is not like Seattle, when it rains in Kansas, it doesn’t rain all day long and into the next day. I figured I could wait it out and sure enough, in less than an hour it had stopped and the sky to the west was inviting me to continue my ride. At this point my “epic distance” day was becoming less likely, in fact, it was now off the table. My goal became Scott City at mile 56. All things considered, not a bad day. I would still like to put in an epic distance day at some point, we shall see what tomorrow brings.

I’ve had a desire to describe what it feels like to undertake an epic solo long distance adventure like this one. I’m someone that enjoys writing, but I’m not particularly good at expressing feelings through words. I wish I were better at that. Perhaps too many years writing computer code has ruined any chances of being expressive when it comes to writing English. I might have had a chance at being a good writer if I had started writing for pleasure at a younger age. Not much I can do about that now. What does it feel like to be on the road, solo, days on end? It is exhilarating, sometimes frustrating, often a mystery even to the person that is enjoying the experience. Sometimes I’ll see things that I know few people see, and it chokes me up. The carnage on the road-side is appalling at times, so is the beauty. Listening to the birds is something that you don’t experience while driving. That alone makes the day a success, regardless of anything else that might occur. Imagine these things combined, while traveling for hours on end under your own power and perhaps you can get something of a notion of what it feels like to undertake an epic solo long distance tour. I’m going to have to rest my case there, but I encourage you to give it a try.

This post is about 450 words written in 90 minutes. That is a rate of 5 words per minute. For the record, that does not make me 60 times better than Gustav Flaubert…

I was told at breakfast this morning to be sure and stop at this way-side and check out the historical marker. I’m certainly glad I stopped. I probably would have driven by this if I had been in a car.

Day 43

Ness City KS, 64 miles

I woke this morning at 5 AM to tremendous lightening and thunder. By 6 AM when the sun should have been up it was still scary dark out. It’s now 10 AM and things are looking better, the rain has ceased and the thunder all but ceased. West of here doesn’t look quite as bad. I’m going to try and make Ness City which is 64 miles west on the route. There’s a no-tell there if things fall apart. The National Weather Service has issued a flood warning for the route, so I won’t try and ford where there is water over the road. Of course, that means I’m hoping for the best and I don’t have to turn around somewhere between here and Ness City. What did I say earlier, bad luck can save you from worse luck? If I run into any bad luck I won’t tempt my worse luck by doing something stupid.

It is really hard waking up and facing the day with the thought that you can’t get on the bike. After doing it for so many days, the thought of not doing it can be upsetting. I think this is a thing that people who cycle every day experience. It’s a good thing I would say. I spent the morning thinking of options but nothing really matters because everything depends on what the weather decides to do. I did do some laundry, so if I get rained on today, the rain will be falling on clean cycling clothes.

“He who will, the fates lead, he who won’t, the fates drag…”

The fates led me well today. No rain. Wind at my back most of the day. Dry pavement.

By-the-way, what is a run on sentence, well, I’m not sure, I suppose it’s words expressing multiple thoughts that are joined together with commas when instead they could have been expressed as separate thoughts, commonly referred to as sentences, I’m just guessing, but I’m pretty sure there are some people, possibly even people reading this, that have a much better idea what a run-on sentence is than I do, period

Kansas is not really like a pancake.

Day 42

Great Bend KS, 70 miles

We all have days when we question what we’re doing. When you have a day like that, it’s always better to have a purpose behind it.

My immediate purpose is getting to the next town. The ultimate purpose is completing an epic journey. After that, there will be new challenges, but there’s no time to consider them right now.

I have mentioned my good fortune a number of times already. For the record, I feel fortunate once again. The wind is out of the south today, which makes riding west a pleasure. I can’t put up the spinnaker, but it sure doesn’t hurt to have a southerly wind. I’m told that winds in June are typically out of the south. The westerly winds usually precede a storm out of Colorado. I’m hoping I don’t have to deal with any of those.

It is really good to be back on a Brooks #17 saddle. At least for me, it is the most comfortable saddle I have ridden. I’ll be riding one of these from now on. When I can’t tour any more I’ll put one on my stationary bike.

I have discovered that my new thirst quencher of choice is iced tea. Not only does it taste good but it also gives you a nice kick of caffeine. Oddly enough, there are times riding mid-day when you can be overwhelmed by tiredness. There is a strong temptation to close your eyes. That is a very dangerous thing to do on a bike. Iced tea helps to alleviate that hazard.

I saw a sign that said “free water for bikers,” so I stopped. The water bottles were in a cooler of ice and there was even a bench to sit on. Next to the bench was a sign that said leave us a story about where your have come from and where you are heading. that was very sweet. I sat on the bench, drinking my ice cold water and wrote a little story. Before I had finished writing I noticed flies biting my ankles. They were nasty little things. They were leaving my SPF leggings alone, but they could bite right through my wool socks. My ankles itched for a good half an hour after I got going again.

As I was stopped at an intersection, digging through my pannier for a banana, a fellow pulled up in a pick-up truck and asked me if I was okay. (It’s always tempting to say “if I were okay I wouldn’t be doing this,” but that’s not truly how I feel about the experience.) I told the man I was fine. He asked me where I was coming from and where I was headed. I gave him the particulars. He said “I hope to do that some day.” I smiled and said, “if I can do it you can do it!” He seemed very pleased by that comment.

Finally today: For those of you that know the back-story about how this blog gets written, please don’t tell my alumni friends that I am taking editorial advice from an alumna that did not graduate from our alma mater…

That is one nice looking bicycle. It is an amazing machine.

Day 41

Hutchinson KS, 75 miles

Today was my first real “mileage” day in Kansas. It was mostly flat, but not as flat as a pancake. I know, I’ve been telling people Kansas is “flatter than a pancake” but don’t believe it. There is one benefit to hills when you are going west, when you’re climbing the crest of the hill blocks the wind. Once you reach the top it’s a different ball game until you get to the next hill…

I should be able to reach Colorado in three days. I’m going to try and make that happen. It’s good to be back on the TransAm and I’m loving the new Panaracer Gravel/Road tires. They feel comfortable and they are sure footed. I’m running tubes in them but they can be set up tube or tubeless. I’m starting to think there is nothing wrong with tubes, perhaps it’s even better for a long tour. I’m sure I’ll have more to say on this as I get more time on them.

I was poaching a campsite in a city park that closes from dusk to dawn. The County Sheriff was checking me out this morning but he was too late, the sun was already up. I waved at him. He stayed in his car and watched me pack up. After awhile I looked up and he was gone. I’m just not a very interesting fellow.

When I left Kentucky I went north to St. Louis, rode the Katy Trail, then dropped back down south and rode most of the Flint Hills Trail. By my calculation I covered 690 miles, If I had stayed on the TransAm through Illinois, Missouri, and Eastern Kansas I would have traveled 689 miles. That seems like a pretty efficient detour considering all the great stuff I accomplished along the way.

Tomorrow’s mileage will depend largely on wind and terrain, both of which I have no clue about at the moment…

It’s good to be back on the TransAm. It’s also good to be back on a B-17. Ron and Brutus had a used one they were saving for someone with exceptional taste, like me. I snatched it up. Now I can say I’m riding the saddle this website is named after. Not sure why I ever switched to a C-17, but today’s riding confirmed for me that I will never ride anything other than a Brooks #17.

Day 40

Florence KS, 47 miles (Father’s Day!)

“You never know what worse luck your bad luck has saved you from.”
—No Country For Old Men.

In my case, remarkably good luck has improved the outcome of this trip time and time again. I can’t even really think of a case where I have had worse luck, let alone bad luck. I consider myself a very lucky traveler. I have no explanation for this other than the following observation. Be nice to people. Listen to what they have to say (even if you don’t think they are saying anything) and ask lots of questions. Sometimes it’s not complicated. Sometimes someone will come up to you and ask, “are you the guy riding the bike parked out front?” When that happens, you know you are about to get some good “intel” on the local scene or where you should go next.

My string of amazing luck continues. The owner of the local bike shop is going to open for me at 10 AM this morning because I need tires (again) and repair supplies. He’s going to do this for me even though he is normally closed Sunday and Monday. To make matters even more remarkable, today is Father’s Day and he’s still going to accommodate me.

I also enjoyed two firsts last night. A full-on mid-West firefly exhibition and a full-on thunder and lightening storm after that. I was okay. I set up near a covered structure and when the first drops of rain started coming down, I quickly moved my tent under cover. I knew it was coming because the wind picked up first, enough to wake me. I stayed dry and comfortable all night.

After I get tires and supplies I’m going to try and make Florence KS. It’s 47 miles from here. If Google Maps can find a way to keep me off gravel, I stand a good chance of making it. I have not found a “no gravel” setting when GM is in “bike mode.” I’ll keep looking. Yesterday when I decided to abandon the Flint Hills Trail and head for Emporia. GM insisted I get back on the Trail for another 9 miles, then once I got off the trail it put me on ANOTHER 9 miles of gravel. I had installed my emergency tube in the front wheel as a latch ditch effort to get me rolling yesterday and I did not have a patch kit in case that failed. I babied the tire on gravel, walking at times when the rocks were bad. The tire held, it must have been my excellent repair skills. To keep the tube from pushing itself out of the gash in the side-wall of the tire I folded a bill lengthwise and inserted it between the tire and the tube. I didn’t have a $1 bill so I used a $5 bill, those are five times better anyway. (GM tried to put me on gravel 2 miles out of town so I said no to that and put it in car mode. I was on a 12 foot shoulder all the way to Florence, best asphalt riding I’ve had to-date!

There is one restaurant in Florence and it was open. I was mildly surprised since it is Sunday. However, when I walked in a gentleman by the door told me it was a private party. I smiled, thanked him and walked out. (There was a Conoco a mile away so I had a plan B.) As I was heading out a young man stopped me and we chatted a bit about my trip. He was most kind and apologized for sending me away with no food. I told him a slice of pizza at the Conoco would do. That’s where I went. As I was eating my slice of pizza the young man drove up with dinner for me in a to go box. He explained that he went back in, told everyone about meeting me, and everyone at the party chewed the old man out for turning me away! It’s a beautiful thing. As an interesting side note, the town’s water is spring fed, the tower says the water is 99.967% pure. You bet I’ll fill my water bottles in the morning!

Ron the bike shop dude and his dog Brutus to the rescue!

Day 39

Emporia KS, 71 miles

You’re never sleeping alone when you sleep in a cemetery…

I skipped the cemetery last night and I slept outside the Franklin County Visitor’s Center. I was at the “Not Lost Brewery” in Ottawa and met the owner of the bike shop in town. He gave me the tip about the Visitor’s Center. I like the brewery name, “Not Lost.” One can only hope I suppose. I spent the evening looking over my ACA maps and calculating when I will complete the second stage of my journey…

I’m viewing the ride in three stages. The first stage brought me to the end of the Katy Trail. The second stage will take me from there to the ski resorts west of Denver. This will get me over the highest pass on the TransAm Route, Hoosier Pass, over 11,500 feet. The third stage will take me through Yellowstone, the Rocky Mountains, Idaho, Central Oregon and on to the Pacific Coast. That’s a lot of riding yet to come, but I’m looking forward to it.

There are many rewarding aspects to touring by bicycle. Not knowing what is around the next corner is one of them. The thought of what lies ahead is both intimidating and exhilarating, full of discovery. Once the question of what lies ahead is answered and you get off the bike, the discovery continues. It’s a great way to live each day.

There are some aspects that are less rewarding. Like the blow-out on the Flint Hills Trail today. I tried to fix it with a dart but the gash in the side-wall was too big for a dart. So I then took the tire off the rim and put some dart material inside the tire over the tear and remounted the tire. The sealant tried its best to take care of the leak but it didn’t hold. I carry one spare tube for emergencies and I deemed this an emergency, so I folded a bill and put it between the tube and the gash, remounted the tire and was on my way. I’m still nervous about the whole thing so I decided to reroute to Wichita for another set of tires. That’s over 100 miles but at least it’s going in the right direction. To finish the day I rode to the town of Emporia, my total mileage for today was 71 miles. When I got to Emporia I discovered to my surprise that there is a bike shop. It was closed, but I called the owner and he is going to open up for me tomorrow morning. Another great example of how helpful and accommodating people are out here.

They still have some work to do on the Flint Hills Trail. I left the trail at mile 56 and diverted to the town of Emporia.

Day 38

Raymore MO to Flint Hills Nature Trail KS, MP 20, 63 miles

Yesterday about ten miles outside Clinton I realized the rear tire was low again. It has had a puncture for several hundred miles that sealant just can’t manage. I had new race sealant (thicker compound) put in before I started the Katy Trail but that wasn’t holding either. When I stopped to check the air it was down to 20 lbs. That’s not good. I inflated the tire up to 80 and it immediately went back down to 20. I limped in carefully to Clinton and found the Community Center where I got off the bike to assess the situation.

The options appeared to be 1) patch the tire on the inside, re-inflate and hope for the best. 2) Put in a tube and hope for the best, or 3) find new tires. It so happens I need new tires anyway, This set has about 4,000 miles on them and they are 4 years old. they aren’t going to go much farther. If I were to continue west on the route, there aren’t any bike shops until Wichita, about 250 miles from Clinton. That seems like a poor choice for tires that need replacing. The nearest bike shop that had tires for me was 60 miles north. I wasn’t crazy about adding 120 miles and 3 days to my itinerary (out and back from Clinton). As I was mulling over all the options I was chatting with the (very) nice lady that runs the Clinton Community Center. She was fantastic. She said why don’t you call Greg and he’ll shuttle you up to Raymore to the bike shop. So that’s what I did. Greg said he was leaving in two minutes headed north and he’d pick me up and give me a ride. That’s how I ended up at Dave’s Bicycles in Raymore.

I arrived at Dave’s 15 minutes before closing and Dave and his crew got me all set up with new tires. The best part of all this, besides the help at the Community Center, Greg’s Shuttle Service, and the crew at Dave’s, is I now have a new option available to me for heading west from here! Thank you Dave for the awesome tip about the Flint Hills Nature Trail!

I’ve been writing about the Katy Trail, the longest rail-trail in Missouri (and the U.S.) but the longest rail-trail running east-west in Kansas is 43 miles Southwest of here. It’s the Flint Hills Nature Trail and it runs from Osawatomie KS to Council Grove KS, about 100 miles. It is the longest rail-trail in Kansas and it will be part of the proposed coast-to-coast trail system. I can’t pass up this opportunity. After I reach Council Grove I’ll make my way back to the TransAm Route.

A big shout-out to everyone that helped me yesterday. Great people, great towns. Perhaps leaving a blessing back at the Pour Poet in the morning was a gesture that was returned to me later in the day… you never know…

When I hit the state line there was no sign, so this was my “first step” off the bike in Kansas.

Day 37, Katy Trail

Windsor MO to Clinton MO, 17 miles

Today is a beautiful day. I’m excited to be finishing the Katy Trail. It’s been a wonderful six days, but all good things eventually come to an end. As I put the Katy behind me, i’m looking forward to what will come my way on the next leg of my journey.

The Katy Trail is finished! I rang the bell at the Depot in Clinton!

I had coffee this morning at The Pour Poet in Windsor. I spent two hours enjoying my morning and talking to the proprietor. The coffee shop is also an antique shop and used book store. The books offered there are treasures. I found a biography of Gustavo Flaubert that I had to have. I told my host that I couldn’t carry it and she said, “why not mail it home?” She not only poured a good espresso, she was also a good sales person. I ordered an Americano to back-up my double espresso and sat down to read a few pages from the book that will soon reach home before I do…

Flaubert was the last of the great French Romantic Novelists. Although he was well know in the Paris Salons and he traveled widely in the Mediterranean, he spent most of his time at home caring for his mother and, in his words, “living like an oyster.” He wrote his works at the rate of 5 words per hour. That makes me feel good. I ride slower than most of the people that I meet touring. Now when they pass me I can just think of Gustave Flaubert.

The highlight of my visit to the Pour Poet Coffee Shop was the Papier-Tole framed on the wall of the shop. The proprietor (I do wish I had gotten her name) told me her mother made it. The shop is named in honor of her mother’s creation. Papier-Tole is a technique for recreating a painting using multiple prints of the original work. The end result is a 3-D rendering of the original. The painting her mother chose to recreate was The Poor Poet, a painting by the German painter Carl Spitzweg. The painting was created in 1839. Her mothet’s Papier-Tole version is a masterwork of Papier-Tole. If you go to Windsor, you MUST visit The Pour Poet to see The Poor Poet.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Poor_Poet

Going back to yesterday, I’ve learned that the turtles I’ve been moving off the trail are called Box Turtles. I also learned that Alligator Snapping Turtles are common in this area. They were described to me (so I could keep an eye out for them) and it was made clear to me that if I see one I should just keep rolling.

Also yesterday, I had someone ask me if I was wearing a “smart watch.” Someone else told me they liked the way I mounted my “smart phone” on the handle bars of my bike. Finally, someone asked me if I was wearing “Smart Wool” socks. (You can’t make this stuff up.) I’m going to resist the temptation to assume people are sending me a message about how I may be compensating in some way…

It crossed my mind that I haven’t tried writing a poem yet on this journey. I wrote several when I crossed the U.S. on the Southern Tier back in 2019. Those of you that have read my Southern Tier Journal are saying to yourselves “that’s a good thing.” Sooner or later I’m going to have to give it a try. (If you’re curious you can find those entries by clicking on the ARCHIVE link at the top of this page.)

I left a “blessing” on the “Blessing Board” at The Pour Poet Coffee Shop in Windsor MO for the next cyclist heading to Oregon! (In this case a “blessing” is a gift card.)

Day 36, Katy Trail

Boonville MO to Windsor MO, 56 miles

I got to the cafe in Pilot Grove where I planned to eat breakfast at 7:15 AM. The sign said they open at 8 AM. It’s now 8:20 AM. I called to see if they were going to open today and the phone rang, as you might expect, inside the cafe. There was no answer. I hate leaving here only to spend the rest of the day wondering if I missed them by just minutes, but there is a point of diminishing returns and I think I’m approaching it…

Once you leave Boonville going west, there’s no more historical markers. The trail departs from the Missouri river and goes cross-country. It’s a bit up and down in places but it’s still a railroad grade so it’s not too demanding. It’s tree-lined almost the entire way. I’ve had to move two turtles off the trail today. They are very shy. My shadow was enough to make them pull themselves into their shells.

I reached the High Point of the Katy Trail today, 955 feet above sea level. Here the Missouri department of conservation is restoring the prairie grasses that used to exist in this part of the state before it fell under the plow. The Osage Indians lived here until the were forced to trade away their land rights, as was the case with all native Americans. That’s another story.

I met a cool dude today. He is traveling the country with his dog Mona. (She is a cutie.) He is currently on his way to Chicago to attend his daughters wedding. I gave him all the details on the Chain of Rocks Bridge since he will need to cross the Mississippi River into Illinois. You can follow him on his blog here:

www.mandogbike.com

When you are bicycle touring, there are no bad days, but some days are better than others…

I think I spent too much time today looking ahead instead of looking around. Looking ahead to my route through Kansas. I’m afraid much of my day today in the saddle was spent anticipating what is facing me, rather than enjoying what is in front of me. I’m making a mental not to avoid that tomorrow…

Nearing the end of my Katy Trail journey.

Day 35, Katy Trail

_ Cooper’s Landing CG MO to (Somewhere West of) Boonville MO, 45 miles_

I love the way butterflies on the trail fly up in front of you, seemingly out of nowhere. Sometimes they even flutter right in front of your face.

I got a real compliment yesterday. I was at a trail head and a fellow rolled up and got off his bike, he looked at me and said, “you can always tell a real cyclist by the way they pack their gear and the way they stand their bicycle up when they’re not on it.” I thanked him and we chatting about bicycles for some time. The reason this turned out to be such a nice compliment is that he has worked as both a mechanic and as a trained tour guide for two major bicycling tour companies.

I try and read signs. Sometimes it’s not my fault. I saw a sign on the trail that said, “Bistro and Wine Tasting: follow the path to the top of the bluff, 0.3 miles.” I followed the path to the top of the bluff. It was very steep and partially washed out. They should not have even had a sign on the trail, it was irresponsible. I labored all the way to the top and what did I find? The Bistro is closed on Tuesdays. I have to admit the view up here of the Missouri River is beautiful, so I’m going to rest and enjoy the view for awhile.

Sometimes when I look at people around me, it makes me very grateful that I’m able to undertake this journey. Not a lot of people my age are well enough to accomplish this sort of undertaking. Sometimes people I talk to are shocked when I tell them I’m crossing the country. I just say, “you don’t have to be smart to do this, just persistent.” The truth is, everyone I’ve met along the way that is doing this is both smart and persistent. I think the two go hand-in-hand.

Sidebar: You never see skinny guys in a recumbent. (But good for them.)

For me, the nicest features of the Katy Trail (in addition to the scenery) are the Historical Markers documenting the Lewis and Clark Expedition and local history. There is a placard with detailed information about the expedition every five miles or so. I have found it well worth the stops to take them in. An interesting thing about cycling is that once you start turning the pedals, you don’t want to stop. It takes conscious effort. You have to tell yourself, “Oh, there’s an historical marker, I better stop.” If you listen to that voice, you’ll be rewarded.

I stopped for a double espresso in Rocheport. Since I’m not cooking in the morning, I’m not getting my morning ration of caffeine. When I find a good espresso it’s a real treat.

There are very few tunnels on the Katy Trail, this is one of the more picturesque ones.

Day 34, Katy Trail

Bluffton MO to Cooper’s Landing CG MO, 65 miles

Due to a stupid mistake on my part, I ended up doing 13 miles out and back from Hartsburg to find some dinner. If I had just read the sign correctly, I would have discovered that the restaurant in Hartsburg where I wanted to eat was planning to open today. When I got back to Hartsburg and realized my mistake I decided to keep going, so I did another ten miles to Cooper’s Landing CG. It’s a cool place, but I got there late and the band was packing up. Everything worked out fine. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger, and my legs got a nice workout today.

Doing the Katy Trail is not exactly the cake walk I had expected, at least after a good rain. The ground has some rolling resistance after it takes on moisture. It’s a bit deceiving. You don’t notice it at first, then about half way through the day you say to yourself, “this is not as easy as rolling on asphalt…”

Ever since I left Yorktown I’ve been thinking about the importance of training when taking on a challenge like this. My recommendation is to not approach this the way I did, which is to say, not train. Oh, I have my excuses, and some of them might even be considered good in some circles, but it was either wait and train, or just go. Waiting and training would have made the crossing much later in the year than is wise, so I made the decision to just go. You can bet before I do something like this again (and I hope I do) I will pay more attention to preparation. Now that I have been on the road for a month, here’s what I think would have been ideal — for me. Two months prior to starting, ride 20 miles a day taking a day off here and there. Interspersed with 20 mile rides, do a few 50 milers now and then. That would not only have prepared me physically, it would have revealed things like my bike not being geared properly and the seat not quite the right one for distance touring. Like I mentioned above, everything is working out fine, but I could have made it a lot easier on myself. All I’m going to say in closing on this subject is that life is about learning.

The view from Cooper’s Landing CG.

Day 33, Katy Trail

Agusta MO to Bluffton MO, 45 miles

I don’t usually start my daily journal entry in the morning, but I’m up early and I have a few minutes before I need to be on the road. I’m three miles east of Augusta and if I leave now its likely there won’t be a cafe open for breakfast. (My editor has informed me there is no need to put a bang (‘) after the word its. So from now on I’ll try to remember not to do that…)

The campground last night offered me two options for sleeping, a nice patch of dirt with some blades of grass here-and-there, or a covered picnic table. While it might not occur to everyone that a covered picnic table is a great place to throw down the sleeping bag, I think it’s ideal. I don’t have to go to the trouble of setting up a tent or packing it up the next morning, and it gives me more time to read and write. It had started raining by the time I needed to make a choice so that sealed the deal. I inflated the mattress, threw down the sleeping bag and I was asleep within a few minutes. I suppose you might call that a form of “stealth camping.”

Today is going to be a bit longer day, but I’m getting a much earlier start, so there won’t be any need to push. It should be a very relaxing day. The sky looks like it could produce some rain at some point during the day. That will remain a mystery, until it occurs… Ah! just as I finished writing that sentence, the mystery was solved! I’ll just take an extra minute to dig out my rain jacket…

When the birds start chirping you know it has stopped raining…

I don’t normally finish my daily entry the next today, but yesterday is an exception. Shortly after I started down the road it started raining. So hard in fact I had to not only put on my rain coat but also get off the bike and hunker down under some trees to try and avoid the worst of the downpour. After almost an hour of relentless rain, I heard some chirping, sure enough the birds were informing me that the rain was letting up. The only trouble was the sky to the west was still dark and that was my direction of travel. I started out anyway and got one mile down the trail only to be engulfed again. Fortunately there was a trailhead there and I was able to get under some cover. By then I was so wet and cold I had to put on my light weight down jacket under my rain coat. I waited another hour and was finally able to get under way again.

I made progress enough, but a wet Katy Trail is not as easy to cycle as a dry one (although there is no dust). Along the way I stopped at the “Katy Caboose” in Marthasville. Jon the chef and proprietor made a nice sandwich for me. We got to chatting and Jon mentioned that he is running for president! “Running” is a play-on-words. He’s planning to shut down the Caboose in January and go down to Florida and try and set the record for the shortest time on foot traversing the Pensacola Trail. After that, he’s going to continue on to San Diego. His goal is to cover 50 miles a day on foot. He has documented his “running” campaign on his website:

www.forestforpresident.com/

His motto, “I Just Felt Like Running” describes his campaign and his upcoming cross-country journey. I admire him. I’m doing 50 miles a day, but I’m not on foot! If you’re on Facebook you can look for me there. He took my photo to post. Jon takes photos of all the cyclists that stop at his cafe that are going across the country. The page is called “Going All The Way.”

I’ll be following Jon on his cross-country epic starting early next year.

Day 32, Katy Trail

St. Charles MO to Augusta MO, 33 miles

My three days of rest has come to an end, time to get out of town…

It’s been a great three days of rest. Got to Saint Charles for a late Brunch. This is where my Katy Trail Adventure will begin. In total between here and Clinton MO, I will cover a bit more than 225 miles of rail trail. The Katy is one of the premier rail trails in America, and the longest. It has been on my bucket list for some time and because I came north to St. Louis I’m able to check this box!

I started the day taking my bike into the Maplewood Bicycle shop for some TLC. Christopher the mechanic there did me a real solid. Not only did he remount both tires and add new slime, he also found the puncture in the rear tire, tightened the crank/spindle bolts and adjusted the rear derailleur. The shop had a high-pressure Silca Tattico mini-pump (these are hard to find) so I picked that up as well. It’s the next best thing to a real high-pressure frame pump (those are even harder to find). I can not recommend Maplewood Bicycles in Maplewood MO enough. Top notch people, top notch store!

I visited the History Museum and Art Museum in Forest Park yesterday. They are two of the best museums in the country. I had ribs a Pappy’s Smokehouse yesterday, voted best ribs in the country by Food Network and ate brunch this morning at Le Belle Vie in Saint Charles, voted the best breakfast/lunch spot in Saint Charles. The Cards won their game last night (even though the bullpen tried to give it away). Absolutely could not have asked for a better visit to St. Louis!

Before leaving Saint Charles I met a man that was curious about my trip. We chatted for several minutes and he recommended a book that I will have to read, ”The Oregon Trial” by Rinker Buck. It sounds like a fascinating read. At the end of the day I stopped into the Good News Tap House in Augusta for a beer. To my surprise I met a man there that grew up just a few miles from where I did. It is such a small world, truly!

It looks like rain is coming in. Tomorrow could be sloppy at times. Can’t worry about that, the trick is to take events one at a time as they present themselves…

Back on the road!

Day 31

St. Louis MO, 0 miles (Rest Day 3)

”All you need to be assured of success in this life is ignorance and confidence.”
— Mark Twain

Preparedness helps too, but sometimes having the confidence to simply follow your nose reaps surprising rewards. I can’t count the number of times I have had no particular goal in mind and I ended up meeting an interesting person, being hosted by wonderful people, or simply having a pleasant conversation with a complete stranger. These are some of the things that make travel by bicycle such a pleasure. That, and the feeling of accomplishment you get at the end of each and every day…

As I was making my way to the west end of St. Louis on Tuesday, it was getting into late afternoon, I had been meandering very slowly. I decided to stop at a local watering hole situated on the edge of the Washington University campus. There was a fellow sitting alone outside the tavern, well dressed, we greeted one another and he invited me to join him. I went inside and grabbed a Busch Beer (I try to sample the “local” varieties as much as possible). After chatting for a few minutes I learned he was a retired attorney that had practiced law at a large firm in downtown St. Louis for almost 40 years. He probably was educated at WU, but we didn’t get into that. A bit later a Chef from the restaurant next door came by and sat down with us. The two were obviously friends. My new Chef friend lit up an eight inch cigar. I’m a bit sensitive to cigarette and cigar smoke but I didn’t say anything, the conversation was too entertaining. (Perhaps if wildfire smoke from Canada had been blowing into St. Louis, I might have moved further away.) The conversation progressed until the Chef asked me if I carried a gun for protection. I could tell my attorney friend suddenly became ever so slightly more interested in the conversation. There are many ways you can approach a question like that, but considering that I didn’t want to get into a long philosophical debate about guns, I just laughed and said, “No, they are way too heavy to carry when your riding a bicycle across the country.” My Chef friend seemed to understand that, he shook his head and took another long puff on his cigar, then he asked me, “well then, do you carry a knife?” I replied immediately, “You bet I do.” that ended the conversation… Something tells me a Swiss Army Knife was not exactly what he had in mind…

The reason for my diversion to St. Louis. That, and the opportunity to ride the Katy Trail.

Day 30

St. Louis MO, 0 miles (Rest Day 2)

Rest Day 2 is literally that, a rest day. I went to a local grocery to get some fresh fruit. I’m not getting the nutrition I need to keep my legs strong, hopefully this will give them a boost. I’ve been cleaning the bike and getting my gear organized for the next leg of my journey, the Katy Trail. I’m very excited to be incorporating that into my itinerary. I hadn’t planned to do the Katy when I started out, but it became a viable option when I decided to divert to St. Louis for a Cardinals-Reds game.

Unless something unforeseen arises, I’ll be starting the Katy Trail on Saturday. I plan to take it leisurely, an average 38 miles per day. I’m planning 6 days of riding over about 225 miles. The surface is what is called “chat.” Chat is crushed limestone (not a virtual room for conversation). It’s a very smooth hard surface when it’s not wet. When it’s wet, progress can be slow. The biggest hazard on the trail are thorns that can find their way into your tires causing flats (reminds me of the Southern Tier). I’ll try to miss them whenever possible… Speaking of that, I haven’t had a single flat since I started the ride. I’m pleasantly surprised about that. I’ll see if my streak continues on the Katy Trail. Luck favors the prepared and the unconscious…

The Katy is a rails-to-trails project built on the now abandoned M-K-T Railroad Line. M-K-T stands for Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad, “Katy” for short. The Katy branch connected western rail lines to the east via St. Louis. It became a vital link in opening the west. The Katy began operation in 1892, and was in use for almost 100 years.

My first stop in St. Louis. The Gateway Arch. The Arch is modeled after what is know in math circles as a Catenary Curve. That is the natural shape a suspended chain takes when fixed at both ends. The Catenary Curve points down and the Catenary Arch points up. The Gateway Arch was built to commemorate the 1803 Louisiana Purchase and the opening of the west. St. Louis was considered the point of departure for settlers and explorers migrating westward.

Day 29

St. Louis MO, 0 miles (Rest Day 1)

I’m putting today’s post up early. I don’t have a lot planned for today. Zero miles in fact. I’m going to clean the bike and get it ready to take in tomorrow for its’ new chain and cassette. I’m going to rest my legs and read as much about the Katy Trail as I can. For example, I know the trail is the longest “rail trail” project in the U.S. At 280 miles long, It takes its’ riders from St. Louis all the way to Kansas City. it is as long as the Colorado River. Unlike the river however, it is dry and mostly flat, unless it rains, then it becomes a mess to ride on, or so I’m told. Rain is in the forecast here for the day after I head out onto the trail, I suppose I’ll find out first-hand what that means for bike and rider.

I wanted to say a bit more about my crossing over the Chain or Rocks bridge. You can sense what an important structure it was back in its’ day. There is something majestic about the structure, nothing like today’s modern concrete bridges, it is actually quite dramatic to look at up close. It is also narrow, which is clearly shown in yesterday’s photo. It’s no wonder it was only in service from 1936 until 1965, less than three decades. What is amazing is that it is still standing today. The Army Corp of Engineers wanted to tear it down but the price of scrap steel at the time did not make the proposal feasible. That’s a good thing, because we now have preserved for our enjoyment an important part of our history. Hopefully future generations will be able to enjoy this early engineering marvel as well.

In the end we will conserve only what we love; we will love only what we understand; we will understand only what we are taught.”
— Baba Dioum, Senegalese Conservationist

During the last Ice Age, the Mississippi River was blocked by an ice dam and was forced to change its’ course. the new channel it carved exposed a layer of bedrock that the river has not yet been able to fully erode. The exposed layer of bedrock was up river from the bridge and referred to as the “Chain of Rocks.” To allow safe passage on the river, the Army Corp of Engineers built a low-water dam just below the bridge. You can see this clearly in the photo below. This raised the level of the river over the rocks enough to allow safe passage. In 1956 the Corp built and 8 mile long canal that shipping uses to bypass this stretch of river entirely. Also in the photo below, taken from the bridge, you can see a tower in the middle of the river. This was used from 1894 until 1915 to draw drinking water for St. Louis.

During the course of its’ 50 year history, Route 66 has crossed the Mississippi River between St. Louis MO and Madison IL over a total of five bridges. The Chain of Rocks bridge is the only one no long carrying vehicle or rail traffic.

Tower and low-water dam just below the “Chain of Rocks” bridge.

Day 28

St. Louis MO, 42 miles

Today I was on the road at 7:00 AM. I wanted good light for photos when I crossed the “Chain of Rocks Bridge.” I was freaking-out when I arrived at the East end of the bridge and saw that it was gated and locked. I got off the bike to take a closer look and found a sign that said volunteers open the bridge every day by 9:00 AM. I only had to wait a few minutes and a fellow drove up to unlock and open the gate. We had a nice conversation. He asked me if I was riding across the country for charity. I had to admit that I wasn’t. Not being on Facebook makes it tough to raise money for charity.

After crossing the iconic Route 66 bridge, I rode the riverfront bicycle trail all the way to downtown St. Louis and the Gateway Arch. The ride in to St. Louis follows the Mississippi River and various canals built to support shipping and industry. The area along the river is a major industrial hub of America, not terribly picturesque, but vitally important economically.

After hanging out at Gateway Arch for awhile, and having my picture taken, I simply rode around downtown St. Louis. I was looking for interesting sights. After an hour or so, I ended up in West St. Louis. I stopped at a corner and three people started chatting with me. When they found out I was crossing the country they were excited to hear about my trip. One of them took my picture while another got me some water. After chatting for awhile I was asked if I liked BBQ? I replied, “I’m in St. Louis, right?” Well that got them laughing. They told me the best BBQ in St. Louis was just a half-a-block away! The place is closed on Tuesday so I’ll be back on one of my rest days.

I wandered a bit more until I found myself in Brentwood. That’s where I’m going to hang-out for the next three days. The bicycle trip will resume on Saturday after I go to the Cardinals Reds game Friday night. I’ve decided I’m going to do the Katy Trail before I drop back south to resume the TransAm route. More on the Katy to follow…

The famous Route 66 “Chain of Rocks Bridge.”