Life On A B-I7

Bicycling The Northern Tier

The Route

The Adventure Cycling Association (ACA) has established many classic bicycle touring routes across the United States, possibly none more scenic than the Northern Tier Route. The Southern Tier and the TransAm are the other two classic transcontinental routes. I have ridden the Southern Tier and the TransAm, the Southern in 2018 and the TransAm in 2023. It’s time to complete the trifecta.

The Northern Tier is the longest of the three routes. I plan to do it solo unless there are others that want to join. My intent is to camp and cook most of the time. From time-to-time I will be taking meals at restaurants along the way and staying in motels or hostels. My partner is planning to sag me the first few days, likely across the state of Washington. The would be the first 400 miles. After that she will meet me along the route in a couple of different places for some rest days and to enjoy some of the many sites along the route.

Starting Point

I’ll be starting the tour in Anacortes Washington on June 1st and finish in Bar Harbor Maine. This makes sense for me because I live in Central Oregon and Anacortes is a one day drive from my doorstep.

There are four major mountain passes along the route. It will be challenging. I believe nows the right time to have a go at the Northern Tier. I’ve been given the gift of cycling and I’m not getting any younger. I’m not world class, but I enjoy the experience and find it challenging and also exhilarating. I will be using the ACA’s digital map set to navigate the route.

Equipment

I ride a custom titanium road bike built by Bill Davidson in Seattle Washington. I’ll be carrying my gear in Ortlieb front and rear panniers on Nitto Campee touring racks. I have a hub generator for the front light. I would also like to use the hub generator to keep my cell phone charged, but I’m still working out the details on that. There are other options for charging, including solar. Since this route presents some road challenges, narrow shoulders in places and both truck and recreational traffic on the road, I’ll also be using look-back radar to keep me apprised of what is behind me. That is another piece of equipment to keep charged, so I may have to add a second generator to the bike. I might go with a simple handlebar mirror in lieu of radar, or I might opt for both. The rest of the equipment is what you would expect a trekking backpacker to carry.

General Plan

For the mathematicians out there, here are some calculations you might like. These are approximations only.

• Average miles per day 60 = 75 days
• Rest every 6th day = 12 days
• Three extended rests of 3 days each = 9 days
• Total days = 96 days

As I get closer to the start date these will be refined. Once on the road these are subject to change.

What You Will Find Below

Keep scrolling. You will find information below about:

Each of the 11 sections on the route. These pages have been compiled from the official ACA mapping information.

My proposed itinerary. This is a suggested itinerary. Riding circumstances are variable. Weather, terrain, physical conditioning and a host of other factors could have an impact on this plan. The plan does not show rest days and will likely be modified before heading out and during the ride itself.

My personal training plan. Caveat: I’m not an expert in developing training plans but I think this is a good start. It’s a 13 week plan. Each week I will update that week’s training plan with pertinent commentary (just for fun).

Logistics

I will be posting additional information here about sight seeing, side trips, campgrounds and other accommodations as I develop those.

Follow Along

You can follow me on the journey. Once the tour begins, I will be posting here every day, Use the link “Bicycling the Northern Tier” on the Contents page to filter and view just those entries pertaining to the Northern Tier tour. (There’s a lot of other stuff here that may or may not be of interest. That is of course a matter of opinion and taste.

Section 1, Anacortes, WA to Sandpoint ID, 460 Miles

Highlights of this section are the Cascade Mountain Range, the plains of north eastern Washington and the mountains of northern Idaho. The Anacortes ferry terminal is the western terminus of the Northern Tier bicycle route and starting point for my tour. The first climb out of Anacortes is over Rainy Pass and Washington Pass in the North Cascades. This will make for a challenging start to the tour. I am anticipating sag support for this Section of the tour. I plan to ride self-supported from Sandpoint to the finish in Bar Harbor Maine.

Section 2, Sandpoint, ID to Cut Bank, MT, 450 Miles

One of the highlights of this section is the passage through Glacier National Park. Carved by glaciers 100 million years ago, the scenery through the park is spectacular. There is an alternate route that diverts into Canada. I’m planning to take the alternate. Passport required.

Section 3, Cut Bank, Mt to Dickinson, ND, 550 Miles

Buffalo Jump State Park just west of Great Falls is where indigenous people used the natural mile-long sandstone cliff to stampede buffalo when harvesting them for meat, bone, and fur. There is a short hiking trail at the base of the cliff where you can see bones to this day. From the top of the cliff there is a spectacular panorama of the Missouri River, the Rocky Mountain front, and the buttes and grasslands of the Great Plains.

Great Falls was named for the falls on the Missouri River found here. The falls were a formidable obstacle to the Lewis and Clark expedition when they passed through this territory. The expedition spent several weeks negotiating the 18 mile portage. Today the falls are obscured by hydroelectric development.

Section 4, Dickinson, ND to Fargo, ND, 350 Miles

Welcome to the Great Plains in all their glory. Created by an enormous inland sea that stretched from the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic, the plains are made from deposits left by the receding sea some 70 million years ago. The rolling prairie seen today was sculpted by the Wisconsin Glacier as it melted 25,000 years ago. The route follows that of the Red River Valley. The valley is one of the world’s finest for producing small grains. A highlight of travel through North Dakota is spotting Canadian Geese and the occasional Coyote. Remember: “Don’t get cozy with a begging Coyote.” Those signs are prevalent in Joshua Tree National Park in California, but the message applies equally here.

Section 5, Fargo, ND to Walker, MN, 175 Miles

Continuing through the RedRiver Valley you gradually transition to a more lush and moister climate in Minnesota. There is a robust cycling culture in Minnesota so it’s not surprising to meet other cyclists along the route. Logging was a major industry here between 1860 and 1900. One treat is the sampling of wild rice harvested by the Ojibewe people. Try some if you get a chance. The Ojibewe people harvest the grain by canoe on reservation rivers and lakes. The rice is sold around the world as a delicacy and still serves as an important part of the native people’s diet.

Section 6, Walker, MN to Stillwater, MN, 260 Miles

This section of the tour heads south to Minneapolis and St. Paul. With the arrival in 1823 of the first steamboat to navigate the Mississippi River this far north, the twin cities began their growth which ultimately would make them the largest cities in Minnesota. Lakes and ponds, grassy fields, meadows and marshes can be found in abundance. Wildlife is diverse and consists of a veritable smorgasbord of plants, animals, birds and insects, including the state’s unofficial bird, the mosquito.

Section 7, Stillwater, MN to Muscatine, IA, 370 Miles

As you move south through this section of the route the Mississippi Valley widens. It now reaches points where the valley can span several miles in width. The main crop is no longer wheat. Now you will see fields of corn, oats and soybeans. Livestock, dairy, poultry and apple orchards are also important industries. The route passes Effigy Mound National Monument. Covering some three square miles, the monument protects over 200 ancient peoples burial sites dating back approximately 2,500 years. The monument also offers hiking trails that wander through beautiful hardwood forests. In the summer months wildflowers are abundant. One such, the Day Lilly, is actually an imported species that has gone wild.

Section 8, Muscatine, IA to Monroeville, IN, 415 Miles

Now you are entering the “Grand Prairie.” This may be the richest soil in the world all due to glacial activity. This originally brought settlers from the Appalachians and the South. To open the territory, railroads with many spur lines were built in the early 19th century. This brought tradespeople as well as farmers and the proverbial minister, now all hallmarks of this region. Still prevalent today is a strong Protestant tradition with several well known colleges training future generations of pastors. As you reach the end of this section the terrain gradually changes as you leave the Mississippi River plain. With this change comes smaller farms and more diversified farming.

Section 9, Monroeville, IN to Orchard Park, NY, 420 Miles

A large part of this section follows the southern shoreline of Lake Erie for the greater expanse of the lake’s length. Leaving Ohio you leave behind the first oil boom in America. Oil was easy to find in this region. It often bubbled from the ground in places. It even seeped naturally into the water supply. Edwin Drake built the first oil derrick and America’s oil rush was on. Today there are only a few remnants visible of this bygone era. An interesting side-trip here is to the memorial of Captain Perry’s defeat of the British fleet on Lake Erie in 1813. This became a dramatic turning point in the War of 1812. When initially losing the struggle, Commander Perry famously coined the phrase, “Don’t give up the ship.” This ultimately led to a decisive victory over the British. The memorial can be visited by ferry ride. More info is available at the National Park Service

Section 10, Orchard Park, NY to Ticonderoga, NY, 450 Miles

This section follows Lake Ontario although not as close to the shoreline as in the previous section. The first 200 miles of route is relatively flat. If you want to put the hammer down, this is a good place to do it. The route abruptly climbs 1,500 ft into the Adirondack Mountains. You reach the end of the section at the town of Ticonderoga. One of the highlights of this section is Niagra Falls. A short alternate will allow a visit to this natural landmark. Taking in a portion of the Erie Canal is also a worthwhile endeavor.

Section 11, Ticonderoga, NY to Bar Harbor, ME, 440 Miles

This section traverses four states, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine. The section begins at Fort Ticonderoga where there is an opportunity to take in some Revolutionary War history. There is always potential for wind and rain in the Mount Washington area. The White Mountains in New Hampshire present climbing challenges. Nearing the end of the tour now, the climbing should feel celebratory. Another Revolutionary War historical site worth visiting is Fort Knox. Fort Know is noted for its exceptional preservation. The Vermont Green Mountains were once some of the tallest mountains in North America. Today they reach heights of 5,000 feet, in their youth they reached 12,000 feet. Logging has a long and storied history in New England and is still important to this day.

Washington, Idaho, Montana

Note: This itinerary is subject to change once I get on the road. I built this primarily as a way to show other people what my intention is for this tour. There will be rest days here and there, those are not accounted for below. The “Day” column indicates a “Riding Day.” I may make changes to this plan in the weeks leading up to the tour as I’m able to gather more information.

Washington (WA)

1 - Alternate Route

Idaho (ID)

Montana (MT)

2 - Canadian Alternate (Leavitt, Cardston, Del Bonito)

North Dakota, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa

Note: This itinerary is subject to change once I get on the road. I built this primarily as a way to show other people what my intention is for this tour. There will be rest days here and there, those are not accounted for below. The “Day” column indicates a “Riding Day.” I may make changes to this plan in the weeks leading up to the tour as I’m able to gather more information.

North Dakota (ND)

Minnesota (MN)

Wisconsin (WI)

Iowa (IA)

Illinois, Indiana, Ohio

Note: This itinerary is subject to change once I get on the road. I built this primarily as a way to show other people what my intention is for this tour. There will be rest days here and there, those are not accounted for below. The “Day” column indicates a “Riding Day.” I may make changes to this plan in the weeks leading up to the tour as I’m able to gather more information.

Illinois (IL)

Indiana (IN)

Ohio (OH)

1 - There might be an opportunity to take in a Guardians game.

Pennsylvania, New York, Vermont, New Hampshire, Maine

Note: This itinerary is subject to change once I get on the road. I built this primarily as a way to show other people what my intention is for this tour. There will be rest days here and there, those are not accounted for below. The “Day” column indicates a “Riding Day.” I may make changes to this plan in the weeks leading up to the tour as I’m able to gather more information.

New York (NY)

Vermont (VT), New Hampshire (NH)

Maine (ME)

SUMMARY

Training Plan

The reason I have a training plan is because I’m not 25 years old any longer. I’m pushing three times that age. One can’t be too careful when taking on an endeavor like this at my age so being prepared physically is critical. I don’t have a lot of experience putting together training plans, in fact, this is the first one I have ever built. My two previous trans con tours I just got on the bike and went for it. That said, this plan is a bit off the top of my head. If it works great, if I find it’s not working, I’ll adjust as I go. The jury won’t return its verdict until sometime after June 1st… probably when I reach the first mountain passes on the route, Rainy Pass and Washington Pass in the North Cascade Mountain Range.

Week 1 is bike tune-up week and first ride. I return from camping on the North Rim of the Grand Canyon on Tuesday and take the bike in to my bike shop the next day.

Week 2 the training begins in earnest. Mondays will be the week’s warm-up ride. Wednesdays will consist of endurance work. I’ll find a hill and climb 2 miles for the indicated number of reps. Friday will be distance work. I’ll be riding my fully kitted bike starting with empty panniers and gradually adding weight to the kit until they are fully loaded.

This schedule will allow for other activities on Tuesday, Thursday and the Weekends. Hopefully that will include skiing on Mt. Bachelor in March and early April. It has been a bad snow winter so that prospect remains an open question. I would also like to do some weekend camping. Which would include some short mountain bike rides. My local bike shop also hosts weekend and Wednesday evening rides so those are an option, and always fun too.

I will record each week’s training adventure on pages here, just for fun.

Training - Week 1 - March 2 to March 8

The preparations are beginning. The bike is in my local bike shop for a tune-up. I’m doing my first training ride on Friday. It will be very short but I can already feel it’s going to be good to get back on the bike. The Davidson is a real thoroughbred, even without panniers.

Yesterday I downloaded the Northern Tier digital map set from the ACA. I’ll be loading that into Komoot so I can sync it into my COROS app and watch. I’ll be laying out the tour route and schedule in separate entries here on this site. I’m planning to begin the ride in Anacortes Washington on June 1st and end in Bar Harbor Maine. Some 4,300 miles and approximately 80-90 days of adventure touring.

I’ll most likely be riding solo unless the right riding companion(s) sign on. I plan to camp and cook for myself most of the way with occasional stays in motels and a meal in roadside diners here and there. This will be my third trans con tour so I’m no stranger to this sort of travel. I actually enjoy it. That’s a must, so no surprise really.

Training - Week 2 - March 9 to March 15

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 2.

Training - Week 3 - March 16 to March 22

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 3.

Training - Week 4 - March 23 to March 29

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 4.

Training - Week 5 - March 30 to April 5

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 5.

Training - Week 6 - April 6 to April 12

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 6.

Training - Week 7 - April 13 to April 19

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 7.

Training - Week 8 - April 20 to April 26

Plan

Notes

I’ll update this page with training notes and progress at the end of week 8.