Life On A B-I7

Route

• Waldoboro to Rockland

Metrics

• Miles: 47

Note

• Three more days of riding and then a short day to the finish line.

Thought For The Day

• Ambition is good but ensure it serves mankind in some way.

When cycling the Maine coast, you can expect to encounter 1,500 to 2,000 feet of climbing about every 50 miles. Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine combined have more climbing than either Washington or Montana. When I began the journey, I thought if I made it through Washington and Montana, the rest would be a breeze. I was mistaken. Every state has his challenges, you just keep meeting a different set of them as you move from one state to the next. Perhaps if I’d looked ahead more carefully before I started, I would have realized that Vermont, New Hampshire and Maine would present the most challenging hills. I feel a little silly, not having realized that starting out.

This morning was chilly. Fall is definitely in the offing. This morning was the first time I’ve had to put on warm clothes to begin day’s riding in several weeks.

One of the things that make cemeteries in the east different from those out west is the fact that there are more of them and they tend to be smaller. Each small church in each small community had its own cemetery. Another thing that makes them unique is that they seem to be perched on, or near, the top of a hill.

I was having breakfast this morning and a group of ladies asked me if I was going to Port Clyde? I asked them why and they explained because that’s where Forrest Gump turned around when he reached the East Coast. I thought about it for a second and then I said, “well, that would be appropriate, but I’m going to Bar Harbor.” I think they were a little disappointed with my answer.

Being allergic to seafood goes a long way toward making your menu choices simpler when you’re visiting Maine.

Have one for me! Don’t ask me why I pedaled over 4,000 miles to get here when I’m allergic to seafood… if you look carefully, you’ll notice that hot dogs are also on the menu. That would be appropriate, since that’s how I began the trip.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Brunswick to Waldoboro

Metrics

• Miles: 45

Note

• Four more days of riding and then a short day to the finish line.

Thought For The Day

• Gloria Steinem said, “Everything We Do Matters.” Always think before acting. Be courageous and work on developing determination. 

When I’m in the city, it’s amazing how many people I see on bicycles with the seat set too low. I don’t understand that.

I had to get off the bike and push it up several hills today. Maine is very hilly. The hills aren’t that long but they tend to have a steep grade as you approach the top. A lot of times I’ll get about 2/3 of the way up a hill and there’s just no point in continuing to pedal. Peddling up steep hills also puts the chain in tension. I’ve never had one break (probably because I’m not strong enough to do that) but I have had to replace the chain twice on this tour.

I’ve seen yard signs along the way that simply say “Be Nice.” I’ve been thinking about these signs quite a bit. I’m sure that phrase can have many interpretations. As I reflect on it, what comes to mind for me is we should vote for politicians that are nice, not politicians that are mean and show disrespect. I believe the inability of some to be nice is hurting all of us. Politicians that are nice and use evidence based facts to back up their arguments are an even better choice.

I’m the blue dot. It’s the coastal route from here to Bar Harbor.

Religion is performed on a much smaller scale here in New England than it is back home.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Brunswick, Rest Day

Metrics

• Miles: 0

Note

• My last laundry day. I’m going to get a haircut today so people in Bar Harbor don’t think the men in Oregon are all wild-things. Speaking of hair. I’ve noticed that in New England, it seems like a lot of men have been working on their beards for a long time. I think more research is needed on this topic…

Thought For The Day

• What lesson has today taught me? We should ask ourselves that every night.

It was a very chill day. After visiting four barbers, I was unable to get a hair cut. I’ll just have to live with shaggy hair until I can find a shop, hopefully before I reach Bar Harbor.

I’m excited to be concluding this journey in just a few days. That said, my desire to make this my last adventure is anything but a foregone conclusion. I don’t have a plan for the next adventure, but it’s out there, somewhere.

I’m excited to get back on the road tomorrow!

It’s time to wrap up this adventure. The fall colors are starting to come in.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Naples to Brunswick

Metrics

• Miles: 54

Note

• Today is going to be a wet one. My navigator (Commander Duck) is excited about getting on the road.

Thought For The Day

• Make sure your purpose in life is one that benefits mankind. Periodically evaluate your values to ensure they are aligned with that purpose.

As I was wheeling my bicycle out of the motel room, an elderly lady with her little dog greeted me with a “good morning.” She said she had never seen a bicycle like mine, apparently referring to all the gear. I explained what I was doing and she was a little mystified. The idea of a journey like mine was all new to her. I’m touching peoples lives, even if it’s in a tiny way. Someday I’ll have a little dog like hers, but it’s a bit too early to go down that path right now.

I wheeled my bike across the street to the gas station. They had a picnic table set up under a covered area. I went inside and got coffee and breakfast and came back out and sat down undercover watching the rain come down. I knew what I had to do, but still I wasn’t all that eager to begin. It occurred to me the best thing I could do to get motivated would be to listen to a song. I pulled up Spotify and listened to Willie Nelson’s “On The Road Again.” I can’t take my band with me because I’m riding solo (and I don’t have a band). After the song was over I got on the bike and began today’s push to my next destination. Sometimes all you need is a small inspiration to get you going.

I mentioned riding solo, but actually I’m not. I have a navigator, I’ve named him Commander Duck. He’s a rubber duck that was given to me back in North Dakota. He has a seat on my handlebar bag. He calls it his “Flying Bridge.” Whatever… He’s been doing an excellent job of navigating for me. He’s guided me for over 3,000 miles. I’m going to keep him. When I get home, I plan to put him on the dash of my Tacoma. That ought to confuse the Jeep Boys.

I was riding through a mostly rural area when a boy waiting for his school bus yelled at me, “where are you going?” I yelled back, “Bar Harbor!” he was curious enough to ask so maybe someday he’ll do something like this, you never know.

The rain did finally let up, but I had to deal with it most of the morning. There are a few things that should be noted about cross-country travel on a bicycle in the rain. The first thing is, rainy days are not good days to be clipped in. You’re going more slower anyway and it’s a good idea to be able to get your feet off the pedals quickly if you need to. When the shoulder narrowed, I got off the bike and walked. It gives passing cars a little bit more room and it gives me more room and more control over the bike. Another thing you don’t do is take the downhills at speed. The visibility and the conditions simply aren’t conducive to high speed on two wheels. As the saying goes, “discretion is the better part of valor.” Which is another way of saying I’d rather be a living coward than a dead hero.

I finished the day at a micro brewery called the “Black Pug.” The brewmaster was tending bar and he was fun to talk to. The handmade chips they served with their charcuterie board were excellent! I chatted with a nice couple sitting at the bar with me. The fellow recommended a small Maine company that makes Marino Wool Cycling Jerseys. I have a feeling there’s one in my future. He was also interested in getting into brewing. He goes to Portland, Oregon quite often. I told him he needed to come to Bend to experience the brewing scene there as well! One last thing to mention, I didn’t know Pugs came in black, but apparently they do…

This would be the solution to most of our current afflictions.

It looks easy, but it’s not.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Conway, NH to Naples, ME

Metrics

• Miles: 42
• 1.952 feet of climbing

Note

• Today I entered Maine. The last State on my itinerary.

Thought For The Day

• Remember to thank your Creator every day.

The climbing today was a bit of a surprise. I wasn’t expecting quite that much.

Expanding slightly on the “Thought For The Day,” I do thank my Creator that I’ve been given the ability to make a journey like this one. I have enjoyed every day, even the most challenging ones.

Portions of the ride today were on such rural roads that I was overwhelmed by quiet. I could hear birds and frogs while I was riding, and I was rarely interrupted by the sound of a car. These moments are magical because you can allow your mind to wander without concern for traffic, and wander it did.

At times like this you are also more observant…

Looking ahead of me, I saw a squirrel sitting on its haunches on the side of the road. It appeared to be looking at something. As I got closer, it noticed me and scurried into the undergrowth on the side of the road. When I got to the spot where the squirrel had been sitting, I noticed another squirrel clearly dead. It looked like it was sleeping, but it had obviously been struck by a car. It’s friend that had scurried away when it saw me had been sitting next to it, waiting for it to wake up. How do I know all this? While it is true that perceptions are unreliable, I believe my interpretation is correct. Call me an old softy if you’d like, I don’t mind, I’m tough enough to take it.

That’s it for today. I’ll be in Bat Harbor in 7 days!

MAINE! Welcome Home… Almost!

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Lincoln to Conway on the “Kanc”

Metrics

• Miles: 38

Note

• I have one more mountain to climb. The Kancamagus Scenic Byway. The Byway is one of the most beautiful in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

Thought For The Day

• When tempted, look temptation in the eye, laugh at it and then walk away. Laughing at temptation helps to put it in perspective.

The Kancamagus Scenic Byway, also known as the “Kanc,” is 34.5 miles of pure White Mountain wilderness. There are no services but there are plenty of stunning views. I’m hitting it at the right time of year, just as the fall colors are starting to come in. The highway begins in Lincoln, New Hampshire at an elevation of 1,411 feet and tops out at 3,000 feet. That’s 1,589 feet of elevation gain. The “climbing” will be significantly more. My day of rest here in Lincoln has been really beneficial. Note: The actual climbing turned out to be 2,184 feet.

I got a kick out of this sign.

My skiing friends back home will get a kick out of that…

Rules of the Road for Drivers

Rules of the road for drivers according to this cyclist. If you see a cyclist, give them a wide birth. That means crossing the center line when you go past them. If there’s a car coming toward you in the oncoming lane, and all three would meet at the same time, slow down, wait for the oncoming car to go by, then go around the cyclist, giving them a wide birth. Not only is this common sense, it’s common courtesy. There is no place so important that it means not slowing down and not moving over.

My last big climb is officially in the books!

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Lincoln, Rest Day

Metrics

• Miles: 0

Note

• Even if a princess enters your life to grant you good luck, you still have to put in the work.

Thought For The Day

• Success is not what you own or how rich you are. Success is who you are. 

When I got in the elevator here at the motel, a little girl in a princess outfit, complete with crown and magic wand, said hello to me and granted me 40 hours of good luck. I thanked her and said her timing was excellent because tomorrow I plan to ride my bike to the top of the Kancamagus Scenic Byway. I’m pretty sure she didn’t know what I was talking about, but her parents did. They both said that was amazing and they wished me safe travel. The princess’s timing is excellent. I’m pretty sure I’m going to need all the luck I can get… and a little work…

While I was wandering around town, I met a couple thru-hiking the AT. That’s 2,200 miles of hiking only trail, the longest in the world. I joking said they wouldn’t need to do the PCT after completing the AT. They said they were planning on doing that next year! I gave them my contact info and said I would pick them up for resupply when they get to Central Oregon. They were impressed by my tour which left me mildly surprised. I admire what thy are doing tremendously.

I went into an Ace Hardware and found the exact charging cable I’ve been looking for. It will now be easier to keep the phone charged off the dynamo hub and use less backup battery. Just in time to finish my tour. What can I say, “Ace is the Place.”

I’m leaving early in the morning so right before closing I picked up a sandwich for lunch on the road tomorrow.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Orford to Lincoln

Metrics

• Miles: 39

Note

• As I pedal out of the campground, It looks like rain is in the offing…

Thought For The Day

• Use the gifts you’ve been given to the best of your ability.

Last night as I was lounging by my campfire and thinking about boiling some water for my dehydrated chicken penne pasta, the neighbor camping across from me walked over and told me to come join them for dinner! We enjoyed lamb chops and cous-cous salad. I donated some apple fritter muffins that I picked up at a farm stand earlier in the day. We had a very nice evening.

Indeed, my suspicion that today held out the promise of rain was correct. The raincoat was on-and-off several times today. I finished the day riding into Lincoln with it on. Lincoln is the village just beyond Woodstock. Lincoln is the home of Loon Mountain Ski Resort. It looks like it would be a fun ski hill.

At the top of the pass above Woodstock, I stopped at the Lost River Caves Interpretative Center. There’s a mile long boardwalk that explores the lost river canyon and the caves surrounding it. The self guided excursion cost $29. Someone left a ticket at the counter instructions to give it to someone. The lady working there gave it to me!

It was another day of climbing over 2,000 feet. The descent into Woodstock was fast and fun. I was riding on new paved surface all the way from the top of the pass into the town of Woodstock. It was a scary fast descent.

At the end of the day, I stopped at a bicycle shop in Lincoln. I like to go in and just browse around and talk to the people working there. When I came out of the shop, as so often happens, there were a couple of people admiring my bike.

Trivia: There are 54 covered bridges in New Hampshire.

Views of Lost River Canyon above Woodstock.

The knot it the top is Mt. Tecumseh. At 4,003 feet, it forms the west side of Waterville Valley Ski Area.

Top of the pass above Woodstock.

Another crazy descent. Brand new pavement made this a thrilling experience. I don’t know how fast I was going because I didn’t dare look down at my navigation app to find out!

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• South Royalton, VT to Orford, NH

Metrics

• Miles: 29

Note

• When you’re going for distance and you’re carrying a load, low and slow is the way to go.

Thought For The Day

• Remember to serve others.

And so begins Day 90… “The weather continues sunny and warm.”

I’m starting to think that doing 30 miles a day is more enjoyable than doing 75 miles a day… The only problem with 30 miles a day is you don’t go very far and it would take a long time to go any distance. After averaging 53 a day it also takes some mental adjustment, that’s for sure.

In terms of adjustment, I stopped for breakfast, I stopped for lunch, I stopped for a snack, and I stopped to talk to another Cyclist along the road. Oh, and I’m into my campground early enough to set up, take a nap, and have a fire tonight.

Tomorrow i’m stepping up the game. I’m going to do a whopping 36 miles. It will be mostly uphill, but it’s not going to be the big climb. The big climb will be Monday. After that it will be a meander into Bar Harbor.

More views you don’t see from a car window.

I wanted to get off the bike and hike down there in the worst way.

We chatted for a long time before he took off.

Apple fritter muffins for dessert tonight. It should go very well with my chicken penne pasta. All I need to do is remember to take the desiccant out of the bag before I add the hot water.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Rochester to South Royalton

Metrics

• Miles: 26

Note

• When I stop for breakfast or lunch, I can’t wait to get back on the bike. It has become something of an addiction. A good one I hope.

Thought For The Day

• If you lose patience, remember that obtaining patience is a lifelong endeavor. Take a step back, take a deep breath, then you will be able to move forward.

South Royalton is the home of Vermont Law and Graduate School. I stopped into the bookstore to browse, then went down the street for a coffee. As I was sitting outside the coffee shop, enjoying an Americano, a fellow walked up and was admiring my Davidson. It turns out he knows quite a bit about custom built bicycles. He called himself an aficionado, I would call him an expert. It was clear why he knows custom built bicycles, he owns several. No surprise since he was well over 6 feet tall. He took photos of the bike to show to his friends.

We talked bicycles and he was very interesting as well as helpful. He helped me figure out the best way to charge my phone off of the dynamo hub and Sinewave front light. It’s too bad. I didn’t meet him back in Washington!

Today was a short day, only 26 miles. I’m slowing down my pace so I don’t reach Bar Harbor before my ride home does! Up to this point I’ve been averaging 53.6 miles per day. That will drop slightly by the time I reach Bar Harbor. That will still be a respectable number.

South Royalton citizens that have given their lives in service to their country. It’s not uncommon for small towns to have a city park in the center of town. Typically they have a memorial to those that have served.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Ticonderoga, NY to Rochester, VT

Metrics

• Miles: 42
• Travel Time: About 6 Hours

Note

• We are more connected to each other than we realize.

Thought For The Day

• Work hard and take time for rest.

Me, if I were rafting across the country. (A 1965 New Yorker cartoon.)

The day began with a ferry crossing across Lake Champlain from Ticonderoga, New York to Vermont. I pulled up to the landing and I was the only person waiting to cross. I looked across the lake and I was pretty sure I could see the ferry on the other shore, but it wasn’t moving. I waited for about 10 minutes and was beginning to think it wasn’t operating today. A car pulled up and I thought, oh good, now I’m not the only person waiting. The driver got out of the car and we struck up a conversation. We talked about bicycles and motorcycles. After a few minutes, he walked over to the ferry ramp and pulled a chain which raised a placard to let the Ferry know there was someone waiting. I looked at him and said, “thank you. I would’ve waited all morning!” He has taken the fair many times, but he said there are days when he’s forgotten to do that, we both laughed.

When we got to the other shore, he pulled over and we exchanged phone numbers and I gave him a link to this site. He said if you have any trouble at all in Vermont to call him and he’d come get me. He said he also has friends in New Hampshire, so if I break-down or have any trouble in New Hampshire, he’ll get them out to help me. I am continually amazed at the kindness and generosity of the people I meet on this adventure.

To expand slightly on today’s thought for the day of work hard and rest, I did exactly that. As far as the “work hard” part of that goes, my navigation app tells me I did 2,800 feet of climbing today. That feels about right. There’s the difference between the mountains out west and the mountains here in the east. So far, I have experienced steeper grades in the east. Out west, I did not have to get off the bike and push. To reach the top of today’s biggest climb, I had to push the bike the last two thousand yards to the summit. There may be a couple of factors influencing that. My legs are starting to feel heavy, which is another way of saying they’re getting tired. I’m also carrying more weight than I was when I began the tour. However, all things being equal, the climbing today was more difficult than anything I’ve encountered so far. As far as the “rest” portion of today’s thought goes, i’m staying at a very nice Inn in Rochester, Vermont, the “Stable Inn.” I had dinner at a wonderful farm to table restaurant just across the street.

There’s a very good bike shop next-door to the Inn. “Green Mountain Bicycles.” A husband and wife run the two businesses. Since I’m staying at the Inn, the bike shop did a quick tune on the bike, no charge. This area is a Mecca for mountain biking. When I came back to the shop to pick up my bike, the mechanic who worked on it said, “my good friend Mark in Seattle built your bike.” What a small world we live in!

I took a small cable ferry from Ticonderoga, NY across Lake Champlain to Vermont. The ferry runs on two cables. The crossing takes only 6 minutes.

I asked the captain, “What happens if one of the cables breaks?” He replied, “We could end up in New York harbor, but that would require us to navigate a lot of locks on the Champlain Canal, so it might take us awhile.”

I’m in Vermont!

I’m slightly embarrassed to admit I have underestimated the physical challenge presented by the Green Mountains.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Ticonderoga, Rest Day

Metrics

• Miles: 0

Note

• If you’re afraid of being doxed, you should probably think about choosing a different profession.

Thought For The Day

• Show respect to everyone. Smile.

I BIG shout-out to Derick at Cascade Racks in Bend Oregon. They are the vehicle rack and accessory experts in Bend. Derick got the bike rack all dialed-in and ready for the long drive across the country to pick me up in Bar Harbor. Thanks Derick!

I was not able to get out to Fort Ticonderoga today because my motel is 4 miles away and I did not want to ride my bike out there and then have to lock it somewhere that would not allow me to keep an eye on it. It’s possible we may stop there on the way home…

I was able to take-in the Star Trek Museum. It was fantastic. It is a tour of the original Star Trek Series film set. The entire museum was financed by James Cawley, an Elvis impersonator. Cawley befriended the original Star Trek Series set designer, who gave him a copy of the plans for the entire set.

The highlight of the museum was a working Transporter. I asked the docent at the museum how far they could transport someone. He said they are limited to a 400 mile range. I asked why was that? He said basically it comes down to energy requirements. The amount of energy needed to disassemble and reassemble all the atoms in a person limits them to a 400 mile range because they don’t have a functioning Warp Drive as their primary power source. I thought about this for a second. I said, then Baruch Spinoza was correct, if you can disassemble and reassemble someone at the atomic level that means Pantheism is the Primary Mover in the universe. As Baruch Spinoza predicted, God is Nature and Nature is God. The docent smiled at me. He said it’s amazing how many people come through the museum and don’t fully grasp what a I had just so eloquently summarized… Since their Transporter only has a 400 mile range and Bar Harbor is 439 miles from here, I’m going to have to get back on the bike tomorrow morning.

That’s it for today! Tomorrow I take the ferry across Lake Champlain to Vermont to begin the final leg of my journey.

Another mural. This one is titled “Ticonderoga Men at Work.” Up close you can see it is very detailed.

Itinerary Maps

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Route

• CVT (Schuylerville to Ticonderoga)

Metrics

• Miles: 65
• Travel Time: All Day
• Terrain: Difficult

Note

• According to Socrates, “the unexamined life is not worth living.” In a small way, you could consider this blog to be my way of examining life.

Thought For The Day

• There is no distinction between your public life and your private life. Both should reflect what is best in you, and do so all of the time.

I started out today following the Hudson River and the Champlain Valley Canal. Somewhere along the way I lost them and entered the Adirondack Mountains. After a day of rest tomorrow, my next stop will be in Vermont. Vermont officially begins the final leg of my tour. If all goes according to plan, I will reach Bar Harbor on September 9th. That said, let’s not count Roger’s eggs before the chickens lay them.

My plan for tomorrow is to see Fort Ticonderoga and the Star Trek Museum. (There’s a combination for you…) if I don’t make it to Bar Harbor, you can come looking for me in the Star Trek Museum. (Perhaps I should have Scotty Beam-me to Bar Harbor?) if time allows, I’m going to clean the trail dust off the bike. I’m also looking forward to a nice dinner.

This was by far the most difficult day following the EVT and CVT Trails. Right from the start I was introduced to a hill that I had to push the bike up. We’re not talking Mountain pass, we’re just talking about 100 yards or so that are so steep you can’t ride even in the lowest gear. There were three of those. Those were not the only hills. There were long hills later in the day that could only be conquered by shifting down to the lowest gear and grinding it out for a mile or a mile and a half. this is not the best way to see the countryside because when you’re making your way up one of these, you’re simply looking at the ground in front of you. I lost count. It was standard issue for the last 25 miles. To make things even more interesting, I had to put the rain jacket on at least a half a dozen times.

Ten miles from Ticonderoga I realized I was losing focus. It was exhaustion, but I didn’t realize it. I got off the bike and made some rescue coffee. In case you’re not familiar with that term, it’s Starbucks instant coffee mixed with water from your water bottle. It did the trick for the next 5 miles. Then at 5 miles outside Ticonderoga I realized the root problem was hunger. I had depleted all of my energy stores. Caffeine is only good to wake you up and give you a quick, but short, energy boost. Once again, I got off the bike. This time I pulled a packet of instant oatmeal out of my kitchen bag. I added water from my water bottle and ate that. I carry brown sugar and cinnamon instant oatmeal. It’s quick acting and provides some longer lasting benefit. That got me back on the road and to my final destination.

One thing riding the ECT and the CVT has shown me is the pleasure of going for a walk every morning. On each day of my five days traveled on these two trails, I have seen numerous people out for a morning walk. They all greet me and look like they are enjoying themselves. Of course, having a nice trail to walk on is an incentive, but I’m sure the benefit is the same even if you don’t have a beautiful trail nearby.

If the name Ticonderoga sounds familiar, that’s because the iconic Dixon Ticonderoga pencil was named after the graphite that was mined and processed right here in Ticonderoga, New York.

Lock 6 on the Champlain Trail. Notice the menacing sky. If you can see rain on the horizon in that photo, you are correct.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• ECT to CVT (Amsterdam to Schuylerville)

Metrics

• Miles: 42
• Travel Time: Half Day

Note

• Don’t allow yourself to be manipulated by anger.

Thought For The Day

• Never quit.

I stopped for a full breakfast in Perth (NY not AU). You can do that when you’re only planning to go 42 miles.

I stopped in Saratoga Springs at a bicycle shop to buy a bar-end mirror. It’s coming off. I don’t like it. I think it’s at best a distraction. I sort of feel that way about mirrors in general, including look-back radar.

Just outside Schuylerville I stopped at a roadside apple orchard to try my first New York apple cider. It was very good.

Tonight I’m staying at my first guest house. They are a little bit more expensive than your average motel but the charm is hard to beat. It was a little disappointing that the in-house restaurant here is only open Wednesday through Sunday. I guess that means I’ll have to come back?

Tomorrow, I hope to reach Ticonderoga. That would be 64 miles from here. The terrain could be challenging.

The Dovegate Inn, Schuylerville, New York.

Very charming. Come Wed-Sun for dinner.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• ECT Day Four

Metrics

• Miles: 87
• Travel Time: Another long day.

Note

• “The unexamined life is not worth living.”

Thought For The Day

• What is your purpose? Your purpose is to find your purpose. Let your Creator help you do that.

Rain this morning. Like a good Stoic, all I can do is put on the rain coat and pedal.

Day four on the ECT. Not sure where I will be tonight. It will depend on the weather, the terrain, and how many times I stop to talk with fellow cyclists…

I ended up going 87 miles today. I’m close to the point where I will turn north and head up the Champlain Valley Trail (CVT) to Ticonderoga. In four days I have covered 310 of the ECT’s total 335 miles. That’s a four day average of 77.5 miles per day, with the shortest day being 72 miles. I’m pretty happy with that. In terms of accomplishments, I’ll put that up there in the same category with a single day of 100 miles.

The only real interaction I had today was at Lock 15 on the modern Erie Canal. I pulled up to watch a pleasure boat going through the lock. I chatted with the person tending the bow as the the water was being drained from the lock. I regret not getting a photo. It was fun watching the boat “sink”. It looked like the difference in water levels at either end of the lock was about 15 feet.

I met this fine young man yesterday. We exchanged contact info. He is vlogging his ECT tour. He “interviewed” me but I was saddened to learn he could not promise to make me famous. To the contrary, I’m certain this photo will make him famous…

Amish country. The horse was beautiful.

Itinerary | Maps

Route

• Erie Canalway Trail (ECT)

Metrics

• Miles: 74
• Ride Time: Too Long

Note

• Suffering comes from resistance to uncertainty. Can you allow yourself to “not know?”

Thought For The Day

• Take time each day to think about those things that matter most. Use those thoughts to help you set your priorities for that day.

I arrived late in Rome after a respectable 74 mile day. The horse is in the barn and happy to be bedding down…

I would have gotten here earlier but I spent a fair amount of time today chattering with fellow travelers, including almost an hour in one trailhead park.

I’m too exhausted to share stories in detail but here’s a quick recap of two encounters.

The first fellow I met is riding the ECT and vlogging the journey. He “interviewed” me and also took some video of me on the trail. Something impossible for me to do. That will make a great memory. Thank you!

As I was making my way through Syracuse, a rider pulled up along-side me. We chatted as we rode side-by-side. It was obvious he has done many tours. I learned that he had completed the Northern Tier this year. Two weeks ago! That means when I get to Bar Harbor he will have done the same route in almost four weeks less time than it will have taken me. That is some serious leg-work. I did happen to notice he had legs like trees, Redwoods…

All the towns on the Canal have their greeting signs.

Likewise, all the towns along the canal are proud of their history and like to show it off in murals.

This gives you a good idea of what the original Erie Canal looks like. Notice the towpath on the left. The original canal is no longer in service. It has been replaced by an updated and much wider canal that was built later. The modern day Erie Canal generally follow the original route but there are significant deviations along the way. Lockport, where I began, is the only place where you can see original and modern side-by-side.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Erie Canalway Trail (ECT)

Metrics

• Miles: 77
• Travel Time: All Day

Note

• Anyone who deals in certainty is using a form of manipulation. Most people will accept and follow a person who deals in certainty, no matter how absurd, because for them, that is better than facing an uncertain reality.

Thought For The Day

• Remember that your Creator listens.

After stumbling onto a live concert last night and listening to it from the trail, I found a nice stealth camping spot. This morning I was all packed up and on the trail before sunrise. Today will be a long day, but I’m looking forward to it.

Speaking of your Creator listening, or luck, or perhaps living in tune with the universe…

This morning I was at a crosswalk waiting for the walk signal. When I got the walk signal I had difficulty getting clipped-in, the bike started to tip over and I had to straighten it back up. Just as I was about to push-off into the crosswalk, an Uber driver blew through the crosswalk making a right hand turn on a solid red light without even slowing down. If I hadn’t had trouble getting clipped in, it might have been a very serious situation. There’s an argument for clips if ever there was one. (I may have made this sound a bit too dramatic. I always look before entering a crosswalk.)

As expected, the day was long. I really wanted to pull off a Century, but the trail was just too rough and there were too many detours.

Late this afternoon, a fellow on a fat tire electric bike pulled up alongside me and started chatting me up. He said he was from around there and knew a shortcut that would avoid a hill. I was currently in the middle of a detour that took me off the trail and onto paved roads. I said “great, let’s do it.” He led me down a mile long, single-track that was broken-up and difficult to navigate on a touring bike. He was about 20 yards ahead of me when all of a sudden I heard him say, “oh no.” His shortcut was a dead end. He looked at me and said, “I thought this went through.” What was I to say? I nodded and replied, “I guess we have to turn around.” Which we did. After we got back on the road, we covered about 2 miles and then he said I’m gonna turn left here. My way was straight ahead. I think he felt bad. We shook hands and parted. He was a nice guy. I don’t think he has a lot of friends to cycle with.

About an hour later, I was passing through the town of Montezuma when some little kids yelled at me, “do you want to buy a keychain?” I thought about it for a second and then I yelled back, “sure.” I turned the bike around and headed over to the little table they had set up. They told me I could have two keychains for a dollar. I gave them a dollar and picked out one. They had a tip jar, so I put $.25 in the jar. I love these little unexpected encounters. I have another precious souvenir from my journey.

I finished the day at a craft brewery in Weedsport. They specialize in German style beers. They only sell beer that they brew in-house. They had more than a dozen on tap… for the record, I only had two. I met some cool people and had a great evening.

It looks like I have two more days on the ECT and then I head north to Ticonderoga.

Reflection on the canal.

The top sign is not a problem. The bottom sign perplexed me just a bit. I stopped into the city courthouse to get a permit to pedal through town, they just stared at me.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Amherst to Erie Canalway Trail (ECT)

Metrics

• Amherst to Lockport, Lock 69
• Miles: 16
• Average Speed: 11.5 mph
• Travel Time: 1 hours 23 minutes

Metrics

• ECT
• Miles: 56
• Travel Time: All Day

Note

• Philosophy is about the nature of reality and how we should live. If we are living with our eyes open, we are a philosopher.

Thought For The Day

• Change cannot be avoided. The stress that comes from change can be avoided. To do so, spend time reflecting on those things that are higher than you.

Today is the beginning of my journey to check the Erie Canalway Trail (ECT) off my bucket list. Prior to yesterday I didn’t even know it was on my bucket list. There’s something to be said for remaining flexible when you’re on a journey. I’ll be on the ECT for the next 305 miles of the 362 mile trail.

The ECT runs East/West from Albany to Buffalo. The Hudson Valley and Champlain Valley Trails Run South/North from New York City to the Canadian Border. When I reach Albany I’ll be taking the Champlain Valley Trail north as far as Ticonderoga.

My day began with a 16 mile ride out of Amherst to get to Lockport. I rode through the.SUNY Buffalo campus on my way out of town. The roads all the way to Lockport had wide shoulders and smooth surface. It was a pleasure.

Once I reached Lockport, my tour on the ECT began. This is the only place on the Erie Canal where you can see modern locks and the original locks side-by-side.

From there I followed the Canal Trail east. I saw everything today from boats and stern wheelers on the canal to horizontal drawbridges in operation, to car shows. The scenery along the Erie Canal is second to none. I am really glad I altered my plans to take in this route. Not only was the scenery spectacular but the weather was perfect for cycling.

I was stunned when I pedaled along the canal and saw a river running under the canal 45 feet below the canal. I saw a lot of people fishing in the canal. I stopped and asked one fellow what he was catching, he said “nothing.” I’m not sure what that means, but I’ll take him at his word.

I passed my first eastbound cyclist today. This is the first Eastbounder I’ve seen since I left Anacortes on June 1. It was a woman solo rider. I pulled up alongside and struck up a conversation. After a few minutes, she asked me how old I was, I said 72. She said, “Oh, you have me beat by one year.” What makes the story really interesting is the route she chose to ride. She flew into Redmond Oregon and started from there! She lives in New Hampshire, so she’ll be home before I get to Bar Harbor. She asked me if I did the Rockies, and I said yes. She said, “Good for you. I rented a U-Haul and drove across the Rockies." I said, “Good for you!”

It’s been a marvelous day. It’s getting late. The sun is low. And I’m still on the trail. I have my eyes out for a stealth camping spot along the canal.

A nice start to the morning from my Barista in Amherst.

The Locks at Lockport.

A Durham boat. This is the same type of boat that George Washington used to ferry his army across the Delaware River. Each boat was capable of carrying 2 tons of cargo.

I couldn’t resist the urge to give a lecture to a receptive group of locals at Lockport.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Amherst, Rest Day

Metrics

• No need for metrics today.

Notes

• Today is “Planning” day.

Thought For The Day

• Your past does not determine your future.

Today is a great day to be off the road and planning the remainder of my ride. There is rain coming down in buckets this morning. if I were riding today, at the very least it would mean a late start. If the weatherman can be trusted, tomorrow and the next day will be good riding days. After that, anybody’s guess.

This is day 80. I’ve been told a young man can do this ride in 80 days or less. (Not around the world, just across the country… This trip is not based on the classic Jules Verne novel, just to be clear.) it looks like I’ll be doing it in about 100 days. I consider that a win.

I’ve already started casually thinking about the next adventure. This sort of thing gets in your blood and it’s difficult to dismiss. I’m looking forward to winter. I’ll be in great shape for the ski season, hopefully the snow will come back this winter.

What is it that makes a person enjoy riding a bicycle across the country? Of course, the answer to that question is different for everyone. For me (I hope without being too cliché) it’s about the open road. It’s also about the accomplishment. And yes, it’s about the work. But to do this day in and day out requires a bit more than just enjoying the freedom and the work. You also have to have a special love for process.

I spent almost 40 years as an IT guy. (That was when humans actually instructed computers what to do…) I guess you could say there was a bit of process involved in that line of work. But I also think it’s built-in to my nature. If it weren’t, I never would have chosen that career path. Like that career path, there is a lot of process involved in cycling across the country. You arrive at your destination, you unpack, you sort, you set up, you eat and then you sleep. In the morning, you do it all over again in reverse. That is essentially your life for 100 days. Is it a good life? Yes.

I have been generally following the ACA route called the “Northern Tier.” From Buffalo, the Northern Tier route goes north to Niagara Falls and then generally northeast along lake Ontario to Ticonderoga, New York. What that route misses is the fact that there is a cycleway, mostly paved, that goes from just north of Amherst, where I am currently, all the way to Albany. There is another cycleway in Albany, that goes north to Ticonderoga. That means the next 400 miles I can do almost entirely on paved cycleway! I’m choosing the cycleway route. I suspect the ACA route was established prior to the advent of New York’s cycleways and hasn’t been updated to reflect that development. Tomorrow I will be starting the next and final stretch of my tour on the Erie Canal Cycleway.

An interesting sidebar to this route change is the fact that I didn’t know about the cycleway from Albany to Ticonderoga until I was told about it by an employee at REI today. I didn’t even know there was an REI in Amherst until last night! I’m glad I went in today!

I laughed when I rode by this car a couple weeks ago. I did a double-take when it passed me on the road a few minutes later!

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Dunkirk to Buffalo

Metrics

• To Bike Shop
• Miles: 47
• Average Speed: 10.9 mph
• Moving Time: 2 hours 55 minutes

Metrics

• To Motel
• Miles: 9
• Average Speed: 10.5 mph
• Travel Time: 0 hours 49 minutes

Notes

• I love the perfect combination of grade, gear and grind (the three G’s) that make me feel like I’m flying, especially when I’m climbing.

Thought For The Day

• Be committed to those you’ve committed yourself to.

Today’s ride was spectacular. Perfect riding weather. It feels like I’ve turned the corner and the weather is going to start working in my favor. That should probably be classified as wishful thinking.

After riding into Buffalo and negotiating my way through downtown (not an easy feat). I went straight to a bike shop in East Buffalo that was recommended to me by Marc who runs a bike tour company in town. The shop took great care of me. They replaced the rear tire which was becoming worn and they put on a new chain. After the work was done I had a nice chat with a fellow who was riding by the shop. He ended up hanging out with me and chatting while I got the bike ready to roll.

After I left the bike shop, I headed northeast for 9 miles and ended up in Amherst. I checked into a motel there. (I wasn’t willing to pay $400 a night for a room in downtown Buffalo.) I’m going to spend tomorrow planning the remainder of my tour. I took a quick look at my maps and I got excited when I saw the next few days I will be traveling along the Erie Canal towpath through northeastern New York.

It isn’t easy writing every day. Especially because at the end of each day. I’m tired and all I really want to focus on is dinner, preparation for the next day and sleep. Speaking of sleep, two nights ago in Erie was probably my favorite night. That’s crazy I know. It was so cool having lightning and thunder breaking all around and being dry and warm at the same time. Nature putting on a show just for me. I opened this paragraph by saying that writing is not easy. That’s only partly true. I enjoy doing it and for me it’s a really big part of the whole experience.

I’ve been thinking a lot lately about baseball. Fly balls don’t win baseball games. Line drives and grounders are the way to move base runners around. That’s not as glamorous as a home run, but when you string them together, they are effective. Getting to your day’s destination isn’t a question of when, It just comes down to doing it. Frequently when I’m riding, I think of my day as a process of stringing together base hits.

Campus Wheel Works in Buffalo. Time for another new rear tire. I’m putting on a 35 mm this time. I’m hoping it will do a better job of carrying the weight. (I’ve been running 32’s.) It’s time for a new chain too. The guys at the bike shop were funny. They said the bike looked too clean to have traveled across the country. I told them rain helps. Everyone that works on my bike is impressed. It’s custom-made specifically for touring and it’s built to my body’s dimensions. It has the best components that you can put into a build. That’s probably why it’s held together for three trips across the country. It’s a racehorse, even when it’s fully loaded. There’s really not much you can do about tires though.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Erie, PA to Dunkirk, NY

Metrics

• Miles: 53
• Average Speed: 12.4 mph
• Moving Time: 3 hours 57 minutes

Notes

• A bridge out detour added 7 miles to today’s ride.

Thought For The Day

• Happiness is temporary, joy is permanent. Build on those things that will bring you joy.

It’s hard for me to believe that after last night’s storm I had a day of riding that was free of rain and mostly sunny. I’ll take that.

I’m now in New York. This is something of a milestone for me. I have enjoyed some fairly flat terrain for the last 600 miles. Today I noticed a difference. The terrain is becoming slightly more rolling. I think this is a sign of what’s ahead. I was surprised to discover I’m now in wine country. Everywhere is vineyards and signs for wine tours. Driving back, a wine tour might be in order.

That’s it for tonight. Tomorrow I’ll be in Buffalo. I plan to take a day of rest there and spend some time enjoying the city. With my free time I plan to build a detailed itinerary of the remaining portion of my tour from Buffalo, New York to Bar Harbor, Maine. On the way back from Maine, I’m planning a stop-over in Buffalo for a bicycle tour of the city and a side trip to Niagara Falls.

Usually in these photos, the bike wants to be photographed alone. Today the bike was kind enough to let me be included.

This is the type of sight you never see from the window of a car.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Painesville, OH to Erie, PA

Metrics

• Miles: 73
• Average Speed: 11.6 mph
• Moving Time: 6 hours 14 minutes

Note

• Two flat tires today. The first ones on the trip!

Thought For The Day

• Spend time each day to think of things higher than yourself.

Like the note says, I had two flat tires today. Those are the first flat tires of the entire trip. They didn’t occur until after I had gone over 3,000 miles. Well, I should say there was really one flat today. The second flat occurred when I put a new tube in the first time, I pinched the tube between the tire and the rim of the wheel. It lasted about 10 miles. That 10 miles was extremely rough road which just accelerated the pinch. The first flat was caused by a wiring staple. I showed it to my navigator and he agreed that was the reason. The second flat I knew even before I tested the tube what the cause was. Sure enough, there was a puncture right at the valve stem where it had been pinched. I showed puncture to my navigator, and he didn’t say a word. He just looked at me. He didn’t even smile. That made me feel more guilty than if he had actually said something. I was very careful replacing the second tube.

I reached the campground late in the afternoon. It’s a campground right on the bay in the town of Erie, Pennsylvania. This looks to be a major shipping point on the lake. It’s a nice campground. I got all set up and had some Ramen and then crawled into my tent. About 2 AM I noticed some lightning and thunder so I jumped out of the tent and grabbed my power bank that was charging at the charging station next to my campsite. (It was in a plastic bag to protect it, but I didn’t want to leave it out there anyway.) By the time I reached the door of the tent and was crawling back in the rain had arrived. It arrived, there was no mistaking it. That was by far the worst storm I have experienced on this trip. In fact, it’s might be the worst storm I’ve experienced, period. It lasted about two hours. I was actually able to sleep through part of it. At first, I was concerned that the tent wasn’t up to the task, but it was. I was impressed by its performance and needless to say, very grateful.

I’m getting a late start today. It’s 9 AM and I’m not done packing up, but that’s OK. I only have 50 miles to go today. Yes, it looks like there’s going to be some rain today and yes, I will probably get wet, but I’m not complaining. I’ve experienced so little rain on this tour that it would be ungrateful of me to complain.

I plan to stop at a bike shop and pick up a couple spare tubes. I don’t like spending time on the road patching old tubes and putting them back into service. Call me lazy.

My Navigator confirming the cause of the first flat.

Making repairs alongside the road. It was a beautiful day. It was supposed to rain but it was sunny instead. The rain came later with a vengeance. That’s another story.

By the time I reached the campground for the night, I had traveled the entire stretch of Northwest Pennsylvania less 15 miles.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Cleveland to Painesville

Metrics

• Miles: 40
• Average Speed: 11.0 mph
• Moving Time: 3 hours 37 minutes

Notes

• Today is get out of Cleveland Day. I say that with the utmost gratitude for Cleveland. i’ve enjoyed my stay here very much.

Thought For The Day

• Protect your heart from things that would lead it astray.

In last night’s game it looked like the Guardians would pull off a win with an early lead. The Padres prevailed in later innings with key home runs and patience at the plate. There’s a big difference between looking down on a baseball game and looking out at a baseball game. Last night I found myself looking down on the game. It didn’t occur to me that eyeglasses to help with distance vision would have been an asset in that situation… Nevertheless, I enjoyed the experience. I’ve never seen Cleveland take on the Mariners in Seattle, now I have that to look forward to.

I leave Cleveland under mostly sunny and rain-free skies. I’ll be leaving downtown and winding my way to the waterfront where I’ll pick up U.S. Bike Route 30 and head east along the lakeshore. I think today’s ride should be a pleasant one. I’ve picked a point about 40 miles east of Cleveland in the town of Painesville as my destination for the day. I think tomorrow is going to be a different story, but there’s no point in going into that right now when I have what should be a pleasant ride just in front of me.

On my way to the waterfront, I passed by the Cleveland Browns Stadium and the Rock ’n’ Roll Hall of Fame. Contrary to signage, I did not see Elvis in (or outside) the house. I also passed the USS Cod on the way out of town. She is a WW II submarine on display. I would have loved to stick around for a tour but once on the road it’s difficult to change plans. It looks like she sank 21 enemy vessels during World War II.

There is still significant rain (0.5”) in the forecast for tomorrow. I’m planning on an 80 mile day tomorrow. That could mean I arrive wet. I’ll make the best of it.

Cleveland Guardians!

If I had gone more than 40 miles today, I could’ve finished it.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Cleveland

Metrics

• No Metrics today

Notes

• Today is MLB Day!

Thought For The Day

• Be gentle. It is the strong that are gentle.
• A few days ago, as I was coming out of a coffee shop, a lady asked me if she could say a prayer for me. I said yes. She said some beautiful words. I was surprised and humbled when she said I had a gentle soul. She was a perfect strange… Coincidentally, I work every day on that.

Last night I visited Masthead Brewing and the Noble Beast Brewery. Both breweries had a West Coast style IPA on their tap list. Both offerings were good, but the Noble Beast IPA was the clear winner. It was brewed with New Zealand hops. I’m pretty sure that’s the first time I’ve had an IPA that wasn’t brewed with hops from the Pacific Northwest. If you come to Cleveland, give the Noble Beast a try.

As I was wandering back from my brewery tour, I dropped into an Irish Pub. Before I knew it, I was engaged in interesting conversation with a nice group of folks visiting Cleveland from California. We exchanged some great stories. They were very curious about my journey so I shared this website with them. By the way, thank you very much for the Manhattan.

Yesterday’s clear winner.

I combined my brewery tour with a tour of murals.

Itinerary Maps

Route

• Cleveland

Metrics

• No Metrics Today

Note

• Art speaks to all of us. All we need to do is listen.

Thought For The Day

• Do everything you do to the best of your ability. 

On the agenda today is a visit to the Cleveland Museum of Art. After that, I plan to visit one of the city’s local breweries. There are 42 breweries in and around the city of Cleveland. It will not be an easy decision.

The Cleveland Museum of Art is overwhelming. You can’t possibly take in all it has to offer in one day. I did the best I could. Shown below are a couple of paintings that I found captivating. There were many others in addition to these.

This painting depicts the common bond that we all share, as well as the separation that exists within our society.

This painting from 1863 inspired Abraham Lincoln to set aside Yosemite as a national preservation trust. It was later designated a National Park.

Itinerary Maps